Parce que Galia Lahav aspire à changer la perception de la féminité au travers du vêtement, elle a opté pour un mixe entre la mode de l’époque victorienne et la Belle époque lors de la création de sa collection couture printemps-été 2017. Le classique des coupes et des lignes a été réadapté pour plaire à l’amateur contemporain. Un mélange innovant dévoilé au cours de la fashion week de Paris qui s’est déroulé en Janvier dernier.
L’époque victorienne
Présente sur les robes, les jupes, les accessoires et plus encore, l’influence de l’ère victorienne est bien ancrée dans la collection couture printemps-été 2017 de Galia Lahav. Elle se décline au travers des hauts de cols, des robes de thé diverses, des hauts décolletés, des décors raffinés sous forme d’ornement floral, des corsets aux manches spectaculaires ou encore des cravates de cou. Le bouquet final arrive par le biais d’une robe de marié (Thelma) rappelant celle de la reine Victoria, une figure emblématique de la royauté anglaise.
La touche française
Puisque la Belle Epoque se traduit en France par la révolution industrielle, Galia Lahav s’est elle aussi inspirée des innovations en intégrant le silicone dans sa collection. C’est ainsi par exemple que la robe colonne composée de silicone et de dentelles innovantes nommée « Mary-Jane » a été créée et présentée au cours du défilé. Chez la créatrice, le silicone se décline également en imprimé relief que l’on retrouve notamment dans la robe « Eedee ».
Galia Lahav fait usage de dentelles vintages de Lyon pour accentuer la touche française de sa collection.
Le « Broder à la main »
Que ce soit pour les pièces inspirées de l’époque victorienne ou celles qui découlent de la Belle Epoque, toutes arborent des broderies. Ces dernières, entièrement faites à la main se déclinent en broches et en dentelles chantilly couleur marbre pour la robe Cecelia ou couleur or pour la robe Leonie, en caméo rose-or pour la robe Tilda, en fleurs pour orner la taille de la robe Dee ou encore en volant or et noirs sur la robe Mackenzie.
Méticuleuse, la créatrice Galia Lahav est allée jusqu’à choisir des tissus teints à la main pour souligner la profondeur de cette époque qu’elle affectionne. Sa collection mêle de façon harmonieuse les pièces modes essentielles du passé aux coupes contemporaines et au savoir-faire des artisans. Une belle prestation qui donne le ton sur les tendances printemps – été 2017.
Patrick
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