Les créations de Sara Bran, dentellière-joaillière, sont présentées à Rouen dans l’exposition L’or des secrets, au musée Le Secq des Tournelles, jusqu’au 4 novembre 2018. L’artiste s’inspire des dentelles textiles pour créer de véritables dentelles en or : des centaines d’heures de travail sont nécessaires pour ajourer le métal précieux à la scie bocfil, la scie des bijoutiers.
A mi-chemin entre artisanat et art, Sara Bran maîtrise le métal précieux d’une manière unique en son genre. Elle transforme une plaque d’or en dentelle, un bijou précieux en une oeuvre arachnéenne.
Cette dentellière-joaillère, lauréate en 2015 du Talent de la Rareté des « Talents du Luxe et de la Création », a d’abord sculpté des blocs de pierre avant de s’intéresser à la joaillerie.
Le jour où un élément d’une sculpture de pierre en cours de réalisation s’est détaché et qu’elle a décidé d’en faire un pendentif, elle a eu l’envie de se former à la bijouterie-joaillerie. Elle s’est alors particulièrement intéressée à la technique du repercé manuel, qui consiste à enlever la matière à l’aide d’une scie bocfil, dont la lame est aussi fine qu’un fil. Sara Bran perce et reperce les plaques de métal précieux pour les ajourer jusqu’à les transformer en dentelle d’or.
D’où le thème de l’exposition L’or des secrets au au musée Le Secq des Tournelles, à Rouen. L’an dernier, elle a été accueillie dans cette ville pour une résidence d’artiste et a notamment pu étudier les collections des musées de la Réunion des Musées Métropolitains. Elle a en particulier choisi de s’inspirer de la collection de ferronnerie du musée Le Secq des Tournelles, un musée voué aux arts du fer, pour créer des œuvres en résonance directe avec celles du musée, notamment la célèbre Crèche-lanterne : Sara Bran a conçu deux pendentifs inspirés par cet objet et qui se superposent pour créer une illusion d’optique.
L’exposition permet de faire dialoguer les créations de la bijoutière-joaillière avec les pièces des fonds des musées : quelques pièces choisies dans les collections du musée Le Secq des Tournelles et du musée des Beaux-arts sont ainsi présentées aux côtés des créations de Sara Bran.
Mais l’exposition permet également de réaliser un tour d’horizon des créations de Sara Bran depuis les dix dernières années : ses pièces uniques mais aussi, ses collaborations avec des maisons de luxe comme Guerlain ou Piaget. Pour Guerlain, elle a habillé une édition limitée du parfum La petite robe noire, où le flacon était ceint d’un motif métallique ajouré. Avec Piaget, elle a collaboré à des montres joaillières : des manchettes d’or ajouré et diamants ou le clapet du modèle Altiplano Double Jeu Dentelle sur Or. Posé sur le cadran, un clapet laisse deviner l’heure au travers d’une trame d’or rose et de diamants taille marquise. A mi-chemin entre la montre-bijou et la montre à secret, tout le charme du modèle repose sur le jeu d’ouverture du module supérieur.
Avant même de se retrouver à Rouen, depuis plusieurs années, Sara Bran s’était immergée dans les collections de dentelles textiles des musées de Calais (Cité internationale de la mode et de la dentelle), d’Alençon (musée des beaux-arts et de la dentelle) et de Lisbonne (musée des arts décoratifs portugais). Ces inspirations lui ont permis de créer des pièces magistrales, emblématiques de son travail : le col Au coeur de la dentelle Guipure (Grand prix de la création du salon des Fèvres MNRA en 2011), le col Point d’Alençon (2014), le Col de Natilde (finaliste du Prix pour l’intelligence de la main de la fondation Bettencourt-Schueller en 2011).
Il faut une dose infinie de minutie et de patience pour ajourer le métal et créer des bijoux qui rivalisent par leur finesse avec les dentelles textiles dont Sara Bran s’est inspirée. Cette exposition ne laisse aucun visiteur indifférent, qu’il soit novice ou professionnel de la bijouterie-joaillerie. Au-delà de l’admiration suscitée par son travail, les oeuvres de Sara Bran dégagent une émotion à nulle autre pareille.
Carine Loeillet
Exposition L’or des secrets, Sara Bran
Musée Le Secq des Tournelles à Rouen, rue Jacques-Villon.
Jusqu’au 4 novembre 2018, de 14h à 18h sauf le mardi. Entrée à 4€. info@musees-rouen-normandie.fr ou musees-rouen-normandie.fr
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