« Le luxe est une nécessité qui commence où s’arrête la nécessité ». Gabrielle Chanel
Chanel Joaillerie présente la collection de Haute Joaillerie Flying Cloud*… le nom du yacht – un quatre-mâts à la coque noire et au pont de bois blanc – de « Bendor », Hugh Grosvenor, second duc de Westminster, l’un des hommes qui compta le plus dans la vie de Gabrielle Chanel.
Nœuds de cordage, bouées, boussoles, ancres, marinières de jersey rayé et pantalons larges et souples, bérets emblématiques,… sont les stars de cette exceptionnelle collection, composée de plus de 60 pièces et proposée en deux chapitres (sous les thèmes du nautisme et du vestiaire qui l’accompagne), qui rend hommage aux nuances infinies des grandes étendues marines, à la transparence des eaux claires, à ces moments solaires de la vie de Mademoiselle, et au rythme de la vie en croisière.
Le premier chapitre de la collection Flying Cloud de Chanel Joaillerie, joue, en les sublimant, avec les éléments les plus simples, les plus nécessaires de la vie à bord : de bouées en or blanc, lapis-lazuli et perles de culture de la ligne « Precious Float » ; cordages d’or et diamants pour « Sparkling Lines » ; ancres d’amarrage en or blanc, perles et saphirs de « Yachting Day » ; voilures, boussoles et tatouages, en or blanc ou jaune, saphirs et diamants pour « Sailor Tattoo »…
Sans oublier les nuances infinies des grandes étendues marines, de la transparence des eaux claires de « Turquoise Waters » en or blanc, saphirs et diamants, ou au bleu sombre et profond de la haute mer de la parure « Deep Blue » en saphirs, or blanc et diamants.
Le second chapitre de la collection Flying Cloud de Chanel Joaillerie, présente, quant à lui, une série de variations sur le vestiaire d’été, la liberté du mouvement, et celle du vêtement flottant autour du corps : bandes alternées de saphirs au bleu intense, or blanc, perles de culture ou diamants jaunes et blancs de la ligne « Summer Cruise » ; galons des uniformes marins pour « Golden Braid ». Comme sur les vareuses de marins, de gros boutons d’or jaune ou blanc ornent la parure « Sailor Suit », auxquels s’ajoutent un bracelet et une bague en forme de cordages noués d’or et de diamants pour « Sunny Rope » ainsi que les sautoirs, les plastrons et les bracelets aériens d’or blanc, de saphirs et de diamants de la série « Sapphire Stripes ».
Points d’orgue de cette collection dédiée à la lumière dorée du soleil et à la fraîcheur de la brise méditerranéenne, deux pièces uniques, au travail d’orfèvrerie virtuose : un collier plastron, tressage d’or blanc, de saphirs et de perles de culture dans la ligne « Azurean Braid », et un cordage souple d’or blanc et de diamants dans la ligne « Endless Knot ».
* Flying Cloud : léger souffle, nuage fugitif dont l’ombre glisse à la surface de l’eau…
Claudie V.
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