78 – Marly-le-Roi
Le dimanche à…. Marly ! On pourrait se la fredonner sans la moindre fausse note.
Car tout en haut de la rue piétonne du Vieux Marly, qui justifie une jolie promenade, la petite entrée discrète ne laisse pas imaginer le meilleur restaurant de l’ouest parisien.
La nouvelle déco sous fond rouge donne incontestablement une plus grande vivacité à ce resto de poche, qui n’accueille qu’une vingtaine de couverts. Fauteuils en rotin laqué noir, tables rondes nappées blanc, on a même déjà son rond de serviette en argent…
La mise en scène est prête pour déguster la délicieuse cuisine française, revue et corrigée avec accent japonais de Tomohiro Vido (ancien élève de Christian Morisset à Juan-les-pins et de Stéphane Oliver).
Une cuisine ciselée aux saveurs maitrisées, car la figure imposée est le style d’orfèvre qui épure et qui affirme déjà dès les amuse-bouche : tartare de poulpe, gougère au nori (algue), délicieuse émulsion de homard (comme une glace) …
Un coup de cœur pour le beurre fumé maison au bois de hêtre…
Avec le menu gourmet à 50€ (qui change tous les jours), on fait déjà un beau voyage : saumon bio fumé, salade de cocos et son œuf cuit à basse température, demi-homard breton et son foie gras au caviar d’Aquitaine, sauce ail et oignon et purée de soja, excellent granité de fenouil version trou normand, porcelet et purée de charlotte à l’huile d’olive, dos de cabillaud (d’une cuisson exceptionnelle) aux côtes de blettes…
Délicieux sorbet au coulis et mousse de mandarine…
A la carte, on n’oublie pas le pigeonneau entier en croûte de gros sel de Guérande, aromatisé aux parfums du jour et ses cuisses confites, mini croquette de beurre farcie aux légumes de saison, ni le soufflé chaud au yuzu de Kôchi légèrement poivré et son sorbet au yuzu.
Encore moins l’extraordinaire faux-filet de bœuf de Kobé, aux saveurs insoupçonnables de beurre et de noisette, qui fond en bouche… et fait sérieusement grimper l’addition !
Un bon choix de vins, le Saint-Véran en blanc mérite considération.
Le service dirigé par la délicieuse Nadine Vido, la femme du chef coule en douce.
A quand la 2ème étoile Michelin ? Un seul petit bémol : les cartes sans prix pour les femmes et les invités !
Menus : 50€ (gourmet) et 100€ (découverte en 5 services) Carte : 150€ – 200€. Fermé les samedi midi, dimanche soir, lundi, 2 semaines en août et 1 semaine en janvier.
Tomohiro et Nadine VIDO
3 Grande rue. 78160 MARLY-LE-ROI
Tel : 01 39 16 28 14
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