Il n’y a pas photo ! Depuis la ﬁn octobre, cette table de la galaxie Alain Ducasse a pris un sérieux envol avec l’arrivée du jeune chef Alain Denon (ex-Meurice), qui mérite largement son étoile.
En hiver, le banc de l’écailler à l’extérieur fait disparaître la petite terrasse sur pilotis et le public a le choix entre le rez-de-chaussée, face au bar ou les deux salles du 1er étage beaucoup plus intimes sous les boiseries blondes, la couleur sable, les tables rondes bien espacées…
Tout le lustre Art Déco a repris vie (Rech date de 1925) pour créer une ambiance cosy chic.
Le ton gastronomique est déjà donné dès l’amuse-bouche avec le bocal de riz noir et poulpe humidiﬁé par un bouillon de gamberoni (une délicieuse invention, qui mériterait d’être servie en entrée), ou le sablé aux algues…
Une cuisine de précision et de saveurs totalement maîtrisées : tartare de crevettes au condiment oseille, petits encornets juste saisis aux herbes marines, dorades marinées, betteraves et pistou de coriandre… dos de cabillaud légumes racines et champignons des bois, (la cuisson parfaite permet d’en apprécier tous les parfums), aile de raie à la grenobloise, merlu de ligne poivrons farcis… On n’oublie surtout pas le délicieux éclair XL au café ou chocolat.
Les inconditionnels de la viande trouveront toujours un ﬁlet de bœuf en cocotte ou une volaille jaune.
Tout comme les fans de fruits de mer, qui préféreront peut-être l’assiette ou le plateau de fruits de mer avec les creuses ﬁnes de Prat-Ar-Coum n°3…
En choisissant la carte des vins, au verre ou en carafe, vous ne serez pas déçus, même si le brillant jeune sommelier suscite la tentation par ses choix.
Coup de chapeau au personnel d’une gentillesse et d’une politesse inouïes.
Menus : 44€ (déjeuner), 54€ (diner) et 80€ (en 4 services). Carte : 90€ – 110€. Fermé le dimanche, lundi, en août et une semaine à Noël.
62 avenue des Ternes (17ème)
Tel : 01 45 72 29 47
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