S’il est de mise, dans le microcosme des chefs, de courir après la médiatisation et les étoiles Michelin, il en est un qui mène sa barque à contre-courant.
Chez Claude Colliot, les étoiles sont dans la salle, Marion Cotillard, Sofia Coppola, Quentin Tarantino, Leonardo Di Caprio, ou Guillaume Canet comptant au nombre des fidèles de sa cuisine intuitive et épurée.
Mais les vraies stars de la maison sont dans l’assiette, Colliot s’attachant à respecter la naturalité des produits, certains provenant même de son jardin solognot.
Pas de recettes alambiquées, donc, mais un savant mariage de saveurs brutes portées par des cuissons millimétrées : crevettes crues, shimeji, argan et capucine, croustillant de ris de veau, fruits au poivre de java, chocolat terre de noisette…
Le midi, la carte se complète de quelques omelettes aux œufs fermiers (à partir de 9 €).
En salle, c’est Chantal Colliot qui veille au grain. Egalement œnologue, elle est de bon conseil pour suggérer des accords mets-vins, parfois étonnants mais toujours pertinents.
Une bonne adresse pour les amateurs de cuisine raffinée et inventive.
Menus : 62€ (dégustation) et 79€ (dégustation). Carte 60€.
Fermé les dimanche et lundi.
40 rue des Blancs Manteaux (4ème)
Tél : 01.42.71.55.45
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