Jusqu’à aujourd’hui, le classement de 1855, répertoriant les plus grands crus bordelais demeure une référence en termes de vins exceptionnels. Et cela même si le secteur a subi une évolution et que ce classement initié par Napoléon III n’était pas à l’abri des critiques. Le Château Latour détient la troisième place de ce classement de prestige et ce dernier continue d’avancer vers le succès dans le secteur. En effet, il est devenu le premier cru à avoir décroché une certification issue de l’agriculture biologique.
Une nouvelle ère pour le Château Latour
C’est avec fierté que le directeur général de la maison a annoncé officiellement la nouvelle sur Twitter. Une légende « Certified !! » accompagnait l’image du certificat Ecocert de son domaine. Avec ce nouveau titre, le Château Latour franchit le pas vers une nouvelle ère. Il est à noter que cette homologation figure dans les papiers du château depuis quelques années, mais il a fallu que ce dernier réponde à tous les critères du bio, conserver le goût originel du vin et être au point sur la communication d’une telle évolution majeure, avant d’avoir pu partager cette nouvelle au grand public. Le domaine s’est converti à l’agriculture biologique depuis plusieurs années, et le processus au sein du Château s’y est adapté petit à petit en optant pour le labourage partiel à cheval, l’utilisation d’engrais organiques, la jachère…
Le Château Latour a devancé ses concurrents et est le premier à avoir franchi le pas vers le bio. Mais cependant, d’autres vins bordelais, également bien placés dans le classement ont également pris la décision de poursuivre le chemin du Château Latour. À titre d’exemple, le Château Palmer à Margaux a reçu sa certification en 2017 après s’être converti en biodynamie depuis 2013. Mais le Château Pontet-Canet à Pauillac, le château Dufort-Vivens et Ferrière à Margaux, les châteaux Climens et Guiraud en Sauternes et Barsac ont déjà aussi franchi le cap. D’autres y sont presque comme les châteaux Haut-Bages-Libéral ou Montrose. À Pédesclaux, Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande ou Marquis de terme sont également en cours d’essais.
« Latour a réussi son examen, c’est formidable, c’est un signe intéressant, on ne peut que se réjouir » a déclaré le président du Conseils des Grands Crus Classés 1855, Philippe Castéja.
Une nouvelle tendance ?
La conversion au bio semble tenter les grands crus du classement de 1855. En effet, nombreux de ceux qui sont classés avancent doucement vers une certification et certains projettent même déjà leur avenir. 65% du vignoble du château Montrose sont actuellement passés à l’agriculture bio, et cela sans impacter sur la qualité du vin. La Bourgogne, un autre acteur majeur parmi les grands crus français est aussi bien développée au niveau de l’agriculture biologique. Tout simplement parce les vignerons bourguignons ont toujours eu un penchant pour la vigne qu’au chai.
Mais cependant, l’agriculture biologique n’est pas forcément adaptée à tous les vignobles.
Hubert de Bouard, copropriétaire du Château Angelus a expliqué que : « C’est une chose de dire qu’on fait du vin bio, c’en est une autre d’être certifié ». « J’applaudis donc le choix de Latour, qui montre l’exemple. Pour autant, il ne faut pas penser que si Latour le fait, tout le monde peut le faire. Ce n’est pas facile. Cette année de conversion m’a donné des cheveux blancs. On a dû investir beaucoup de travail, de personnel et d’argent pour obtenir une bonne récolte. Tout le monde n’en a pas les moyens. Ce n’est pas un signal universel. Mais c’est une philosophie obligatoire pour se forcer à avancer. »
En effet, l’environnement bordelais permet aux vignes de jouir de conditions météorologiques et géologiques privilégiées, ce n’est pas tous les terroirs qui ont cette chance. L’Alsace et ses célèbres vins blancs en sont un exemple, ou encore la région Champagne victime des frasques du climat. Mais bien que certains terroirs soient privilégiés, ils ne restent cependant pas intouchables. Les risques ne sont pas nuls car la Gironde vient par exemple de subir de violentes grêles en mai dernier, ce qui a détruit une bonne partie de la prochaine production.
Patrick
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