Paris 13e
Que du bonheur dans la plus ancienne maison basque de Paris, remarquablement tenue par la famille Laborde (Maïté et Dominique après la malheureuse disparition brutale d’Henri).
Rien de plus normal car elle est la digne successeur de l’ancien «Cabaret de la Mère Grégoire», où venaient s’encanailler Chateaubriand, Victor Hugo… et autres personnages historiques.
L’immense fresque à droite de l’entrée est le plus pur témoignage de l’époque.
Les jambons et chapelets d’ail accrochés aux poutres sont désormais cachés, mais la couleur rouge basque, les casseroles… les coins et les recoins, qui respirent les mystères de l’histoire ont un charme fou.
Même dans la salle au premier étage, plus intimiste.
Il n’y a pas photo, vous êtes dans le Sud-Ouest et surtout au Pays Basque et la cuisine est à l’unisson.
Coup de chapeau pour le menu-carte à 34€ : terrine de foie gras au Jurançon, piperade comme au pays de Soule, tomates rôties, filets de sardines et poulpe mariné… bien sûr les excellents chipirons farcis et calamars à l’encre et riz, le célèbre cassoulet aux trois confits, magret de canard grillé et ses pommes sarladaises… le fromage et le dessert (gâteau basque, île flottante aux pralines roses…) ! Avec un Irouleguy en rouge.
Le service est empressé et la gentillesse prime.
Juste à côté, le petit hôtel Vert Galant (même propriétaire), un trois étoiles donnant sur un jardin est peut-être la halte parisienne discrète.
Menus : 18€ (déjeuner plat + entrée ou dessert et verre de sangria) et 34€. Fermé les dimanche, lundi et deux semaines en août.
Maïté et Dominique LABORDE
41 rue Croulebarbe (13ème)
Tel : 01 44 08 83 51
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