Du jamais vu dans l’univers de la mode, une exposition hors du commun, pas comme toutes les autres que l’on a l’habitude de voir, dévoilée par Fashion Unraveled. Cette exposition a mis en avant de vieux vêtements ou inachevés, des tissus abimés, bref des pièces qui ont marqué l’histoire suscitant l’émotion et la nostalgie. Lorsque l’on est adepte de la mode, on affectionne les pièces des meilleures collections que l’on possède. C’est justement ce que prouve cette exposition à travers des pièces de luxe retravaillées et réparées pour pouvoir en conserver son histoire !
Des pièces racontant et évoquant une histoire
Cette exposition qui a lieu à New York s’est entièrement concentrée sur des pièces d’exception, une mode atypique mettant en valeur des transformations réalisées sur les vêtements à la mode. Notamment les réparations, la longueur des vêtements modifiée, les traces d’usure, les ourlets défaits ou l’ajout d’autres tissus. Le but était donc de souligner l’intérêt des fans pour ces vieux vêtements chargés d’histoire représentant une valeur économique et émotionnelle.
En effet, le propriétaire d’un vêtement de luxe peut ressentir le besoin de vouloir le garder et le modifier. Cela peut être pour des raisons pratiques ou tout simplement émotionnelles. On peut par exemple citer la photographe de mode Louise Dahl-Wolfe, qui possédait un costume signé Chanel et qui tenait absolument à le conserver et le porter à tout prix, bien que ce dernier affichait des traces d’usure et auquel des rajouts de nouvelles pièces de tissu ont été effectués. Cela prouve l’affection que la photographe portait pour cet ensemble qui a été modifié de nombreuses fois.
Lorsqu’on s’attache réellement à un objet ou un vêtement, nous souhaitons pouvoir le porter longtemps et ne jamais s’en séparer. Tout simplement parce que les vêtements affectionnés peuvent remémorer une histoire, un vécu ou une expérience de toute une vie. C’est justement ce que Fashion Unraveled a tenu à mettre en avant.
Fashion Unraveled, une place pour les pièces réutilisées, déconstruites ou inachevées
Pour emmener les visiteurs encore plus loin, Fashion Unraveled a également réservé une place pour une collection de pièces qui ont été créées à partir de vieux vêtements. Cela a donc permis de partager l’ingéniosité des créateurs de ces anciens vêtements et démontre également la valeur durable de certains tissus. Dans les années 1990, le fait de réutiliser des vêtements impliquait une dénonciation de la surconsommation et l’obsolescence de la mode.
L’exposition Fashion Unraveled va donc épater les visiteurs avec des créations inachevées évoquant le processus surprenant de la conception d’un vêtement. D’ailleurs, ce style in progress est aujourd’hui très prisé par les plus grands couturiers. On peut prendre comme exemple la robe signée Oscar de la Renta en 2002, présentée dans l’exposition. Embellie par des paillettes et des plumes d’autruche, c’est avec un grand plaisir que l’exposition renforce son ourlet dénoué.
Mais les pièces symétriques, abîmées et déconstruites n’ont également pas été négligées à l’exposition. Cela reflète la nouvelle esthétique apparue dans les années 50. En 1990, les bottes « tabi » de Martin Margiela, qui souhaitait affirmer la dimension éphémère de la mode, étaient même recouvertes de peinture blanche très épaisse pour que la matière se craque et s’abime avec le temps.
Si vous souhaitez poser vos valises à New-York pour vos vacances, n’hésitez pas à faire un tour pour découvrir cette autre facette de la mode à travers cette exposition hors du commun. L’exposition a ouvert ses portes depuis le 25 mai dernier et vous accueillera jusqu’au 17 novembre 2018 au Musée du Fashion Institute of Technology à New York.
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