La nouvelle est tombée hier. Karl n’est plu, il s’est éteint dans une chambre de l’hôpital américain de Neuilly (Hauts-de-Seine) où un cancer du pancréas a eu raison de lui. Inutile de préciser Lagerfeld, le couturier, créateur artistique, photographe était une telle icône dans le monde de la mode que son simple prénom suffisait à le qualifier. Énigmatique sur sa vie privée, qu’il dévoilait par bribes, par élipses, et sur son âge qu’il n’a jamais voulu donner – une coquetterie qui était devenue presque un jeu –, il semblerait qu’il serait né entre 1933 et 1935, Karl Lagerfeld a dominé le monde de la mode pendant des décennies.
En plus de ses qualités intrinsèques de précurseurs de tendances, de sa fidélité aux maisons comme Fendi ou Chanel, Karl Lagerfeld avait fait de sa vie un mythe. Un look très étudié, tout de noir vêtu, mitaines, cheveux blancs en catogan, et des apparitions dans les médias où ses remarques cinglantes et affûtées renforçaient encore cette image de lui qu’il a modelée avec attention.
Né à Hambourg au sein d’une famille aisée, un brin dysfonctionnel dans ce qui transparaît à l’évocation de ses souvenirs, Karl Lagerfeld arrive très jeune en France où il intègre le lycée Montaigne à Paris. Il débute tout de suite comme illustrateur de mode et à peine un an après se distingue en remportant le prix Secrétariat international de la laine dont Pierre Balmain est membre du jury. Ce dernier perce tout de suite le potentiel de Karl et le recrute comme assistant personnel. Il apprend auprès du couturier les rudiments du métier avant de rejoindre Jean Patou et, dès 1965, Fendi. Une maison à laquelle il restera fidèle jusqu’au bout. Une longévité dans le métier assez unique pour être soulignée.
Il collabore aussi avec Chloé, mais le grand tournant professionnel arrive en 1983 avec sa nomination comme directeur artistique des collections Haute couture, prêt-à-porter et accessoires de Chanel qui, alors, connaît des difficultés financières, voire périclitait. Il redresse la barre et restitue l’esprit de Coco Chanel avec une esthétique basée sur le noir et blanc. Il modernise les silhouettes, utilise des matériaux nouveaux et surtout montre le tout à coups de défilés pharaoniques, spectaculaires, grandioses qui bousculent l’univers fermé de la mode. Un sens de l’image, du marketing hors pair… Ainsi au sein du Grand Palais, il recrée depuis les années 2000 pour ses shows des décors de bistrot, de station spatiale, de ferme, d’aéroport, ou d’autres évoquant l’océan ou la forêt, voire même un supermarché. Car en plus de la recherche du vêtement en soi, Karl Lagerfeld a très tôt eu conscience que c’est tout un univers qu’il fallait créer autour d’une marque. Il en a d’ailleurs lancé une à son nom, qui n’a sans doute pas eu l’essor qu’il espérait.
Le couturier avait mille facettes à son actif, il était aussi un photographe talentueux. En 1987, il décide de shooter ses propres campagnes pour Chanel et cela lui réussit. Non seulement ses clichés sont exposés mais aussi ils seront rassemblés sous forme d’albums par l’éditeur d’art Steidl. Autres activités à son actif : un livre en 2000, Le Meilleur des régimes, où il explique comment il a perdu 40 kilos ; la décoration de deux suites du Crillon en 2017 et 2018 et d’un hôtel de luxe à Macao… pour n’en citer que quelques-unes.
Karl Lagerfeld avait une énergie débordante, une force de travail phénoménale, un charisme certain… Il laisse dans la douleur ses proches, ses fans et Choupette, cette fameuse chatte “sacré de Birmanie“ devenue l’animal le plus médiatique du monde avec son propre compte Instagram qui doit hériter d’une grande partie de sa fortune.
Marie Miller
74 Comments
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