Hubert de Givenchy
15 juin – 31 décembre 2017
Dans le cadre de sa programmation culturelle 2017, la Cité de la dentelle et de la mode dévoile l’œuvre d’Hubert de Givenchy à travers quatre-vingts tenues et accessoires issus de prestigieuses garde-robes privées, des archives de la maison Givenchy ainsi que des collections de musées, dont l’important fonds Givenchy de la Cité de la dentelle et de la mode.
Placée sous la direction artistique de M. Hubert de Givenchy, l’exposition retrace l’ensemble de la carrière du couturier marquée par l’histoire des rencontres décisives ayant jalonné sa vie et façonné son œuvre de renommée internationale. Depuis le coup d’éclat de sa première collection en 1952 où il lance les «separates», pièces individuelles pouvant être mélangées, dont la fameuse «blouse Bettina» à manches volantées en shirting blanche et broderie anglaise noire, jusqu’aux dernières vitrines consacrées aux fastueuses robes de mariée, c’est un parcours thématique où l’œil du couturier nous guide pour nous dévoiler son univers créatif.
Les costumes évoluent dans un décor sobre et élégant, fait de grandes vitrines-écrins aux tonalités qui oscillent entre le blanc, le gris et le noir. L’absence de vitres permet une proximité entre l’œuvre et l’œil du visiteur. Un revêtement de sol feutré délimite clairement les espaces et ajoute du raffinement à l’ambiance de la salle. Les miroirs qui ornent plusieurs vitrines reflètent les robes scintillantes, multipliant perspectives et points de vue. De petits écrins sont aménagés entre les vitrines pour ouvrir d’autres lectures sur l’œuvre d’Hubert de Givenchy tout en invitant le public à interagir avec son environnement.
Un premier espace consacré aux échantillons de tissu haute couture précède un deuxième lieu dédié à Hubert de Givenchy et à l’actrice Audrey Hepburn à travers une projection d’images.
Ensuite, deux alcôves présentent les parfums Givenchy, dont la célèbre fragrance « L’Interdit » lancée en 1957 et incarnée par la muse et fidèle amie Audrey Hepburn.
La passion d’Hubert de Givenchy pour les textiles d’exception est visible en filigrane tout au long du parcours, illustrée par ses collaborations avec les plus grands artisans de la mode dont les brodeurs Lesage et Vermont, les fabricants de tissu Abraham ou Beuclère.
Une robe du soir fourreau en velours émeraude est ornée d’un corsage brodé de cuir rouge clouté et découpé en forme de flammes réalisé par l’atelier Lesage.
A proximité, un pantalon-tailleur sophistiqué en brocart lamé or et broderies métalliques cherche à lui voler la vedette. La dentelle n’est pas en reste, présente sur trois robes du soir dans une vitrine qui leur est entièrement consacrée. Dans la vitrine adjacente, le visiteur découvrira le raffinement de l’art du drapé associé à de virtuoses créations brodées.
Comprendre le travail du couturier, c’est aussi s’intéresser à l’histoire des rencontres et amitiés qui ont fortement marqué son œuvre. Hubert de Givenchy a habillé une élégante et fidèle clientèle cosmopolite : sont présentées des robes de Jacqueline Kennedy et autres clientes fortunées (Duchesse de Windsor, Comtesse de Borchgrave, Duchesse de Cadaval, Marquesa de Llanzol et beaucoup d’autres encore).
Il est particulièrement intéressant de s’attarder sur une rencontre d’exception, celle qui lie Hubert de Givenchy à Audrey Hepburn et qui mène à la construction de l’unique style d’Audrey Hepburn sur l’écran comme dans la vie. Aussi, le visiteur peut découvrir les robes portées par l’actrice dans deux de ses plus grands rôles cinématographiques : Breakfast at Tiffany’s (1961) et How to steal a million (1966), connus en France sous les titres Diamants sur canapé et Comment voler un million de dollars.
L’univers créatif du couturier est riche et les sources d’inspiration multiples, parmi lesquelles des artistes chers au couturier tels Joan Miró, Nicolas de Staël, Robert et Sonia Delaunay ou Mark Rothko, mais également la nature dans la luxuriance de ses coloris et enfin l’éclat fastueux des bronzes dorés de l’ébénisterie du XVIIIe siècle.
Le parcours se poursuit avec deux vitrines dédiées aux luxueuses robes du soir couleur encre de chine, où le raffinement des détails s’allie à la préciosité de la coupe.
Fidèle au tempo du défilé de mode, le voyage se termine par de majestueuses robes de mariée qui font la part belle aux vaporeuses dentelles et tulles.
Enfin, un ensemble de chapeaux accrochés comme autant de trophées de chasse salue le visiteur à la fin du parcours.
Exposition à la Cité de la dentelle et de la mode
15 juin – 31 décembre 2017
Renseignements pratiques
Cité de la dentelle et de la mode
135, quai du Commerce
62100 CALAIS
Tél. +33 (0)3 21 00 42 30
cite-dentelle@mairie-calais.fr
Jours et heures d’ouverture
Tous les jours sauf le mardi de 10h à 18h (17h du 1er novembre au 31 mars).
Fermeture annuelle du 1er au 15 janvier, les 1er mai et 25 décembre.
Claudie V.
138 Comments
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Thanks for giving your ideas on this blog. Additionally, a fantasy regarding the banks intentions whenever talking about property foreclosures is that the bank will not take my payments. There is a specific amount of time that this bank will take payments in some places. If you are way too deep inside hole, they will commonly desire that you pay the payment in whole. However, i am not saying that they will have any sort of payments at all. When you and the financial institution can find a way to work anything out, the particular foreclosure process may cease. However, in the event you continue to skip payments wih the new system, the home foreclosure process can pick up from where it was left off.
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Another thing I’ve really noticed is always that for many people, less-than-perfect credit is the results of circumstances further than their control. Such as they may happen to be saddled through an illness and because of this they have large bills for collections. It can be due to a occupation loss or even the inability to do the job. Sometimes divorce proceedings can truly send the budget in the undesired direction. Many thanks sharing your notions on this website.
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I have noticed that over the course of developing a relationship with real estate proprietors, you’ll be able to get them to understand that, in most real estate exchange, a commission is paid. Finally, FSBO sellers never « save » the commission payment. Rather, they fight to earn the commission through doing a agent’s work. In the process, they spend their money as well as time to conduct, as best they will, the responsibilities of an realtor. Those duties include displaying the home by way of marketing, introducing the home to all buyers, making a sense of buyer emergency in order to trigger an offer, scheduling home inspections, dealing with qualification checks with the bank, supervising maintenance, and assisting the closing of the deal.
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