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Une création étonnante inscrite dans l’histoire : le Chapeau Chaussure Schiaparelli

Une création étonnante inscrite dans l’histoire : le Chapeau Chaussure Schiaparelli

L’imagination et la créativité exceptionnelles d’Elsa Schiaparelli ont donné fruit a une création qui a marqué l’histoire de la mode.


Pendant les années 30’, elle a collaboré avec Salvador Dalí pour confectionner son fameux chapeau chaussure, du jamais vu qui reste mémorable dans le temps. Une fusion de l’Art et de la Mode, ce chapeau chaussure de Schiaparelli prend la forme d’un escarpin à talon pour vêtir la tête, et il a fait preuve d’une innovation époustouflante hors du commun que nous ne risquons pas d’oublier. Rappelons l’histoire et les origines de cet illustre accessoire de mode inoubliable qui est sorti d’une inspiration originale.

Une idée née d’une photographie de Salvador Dalí
Ce fut en 1937 que l’idée de créer le chapeau chaussure est née suite à une photographie par Gala de Salvador Dalí, le mari d’Elsa Schiaparelli. Sur le cliché, ce dernier portait une chaussure de femme sur sa tête et une autre sur son épaule. C’est ensuite à l’occasion de la collection Haute-Couture hiver 1937-1938 que la création fut dévoilée après une collaboration entre Elsa Schiaparelli et Salvador Dalí. Une photographie prise par Georges Saad a immortalisé cet accessoire dans le numéro d’octobre 1937 de l’Officiel de la Mode et de la Couture. Une création qui a su se démarquer et ne pas passer inaperçu aux yeux du public.

Cette création qui sort de l’ordinaire a épaté plus d’un, et elle s’invite dans les collections du musée de Gala en 2013. Elle a été proposée en deux versions distinctes, notamment avec une couleur unie en feutre noir, qui appartenait au Metropolitan Museum of Art de New-York et un autre modèle avec le talon en « rose shocking » flamboyant qui faisait partie de la collection d’Andrea Pfister. Ce chapeau est d’ailleurs une preuve qui accentue le savoir-faire imaginatif et ingénieux de la reine du détournement Elsa Schiaparelli qui s’est toujours démarquée par son inspiration originale. Le croquis de cette création quant à lui est conservé dans les collections UFAC du musée de la Mode et du Textile à Paris.


Elsa Schiaparelli et Salvador Dalí, une fusion époustouflante de l’Art et de la Mode
Elsa Schiaparelli, première femme créatrice en couverture du magazine Time, a toujours usé de son inspiration artistique pour créer des modèles toujours aussi originaux les uns comme les autres, tant pour les broderies que les imprimés. Cette dernière a d’ailleurs affirmé que sa passion lui procurait du bonheur et que collaborer avec des artistes lui faisait que du plaisir dans l’œuvre Shocking life. « Travailler avec des artistes comme Bébé Bérard, Jean Cocteau, Salvador Dalí, Vertès, Van Dogen ; et avec des photographes comme Hoeningen-Huene, Horst, Cecil Beaton, et Man Ray a suscité un sentiment de bonheur intense » dit-elle.

D’ailleurs ce n’est pas la première création qu’elle a imaginé avec Salvador Dalí. La fusion d’Elsa et Salvador reste époustouflante. L’art et la Mode ne font en effet qu’un d’après les deux, et ils ne peuvent se passer de les combiner dans chaque nouvelle création. Avant de dévoiler leur première création destinée à la mode, ils ont tous deux créé un poudrier en forme de cadran de téléphone en 1935. C’est ensuite que leur collaboration a donné naissance à des manteaux et des tailles à poches tiroirs qui ont très vite été répandus dans la tendance d’autrefois. Et nous pourrions découvrir très bientôt la fameuse robe au célèbre imprimé Homard après une nouvelle collaboration entre Elsa et Salvador. En attendant, l’imprimé est encore revisité par Bertrand Guyon, le directeur artistique actuel de la maison.





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