Le nom, Amédée 1851, pourrait faire croire qu’il s’agit d’une marque de longue tradition. Or Amédée 1851 – carrés, étoles, foulards en laine – vient d’être lancée à la fin de l’année 2018, néanmoins elle s’appuie sur le savoir-faire de l’usine de Peignage Amédée Prouvost de Roubaix fondée en 1851… Référence absolue pour le travail de la laine à son apogée dans les années 60, la société traitait les matières premières qui arrivaient par bateaux de Nouvelle Zélande, d’Australie, d’Argentine par l’intermédiaire de la compagnie Les Chargeurs Réunis. Cette dernière renommée Chargeurs en 1983 a racheté toutes les activités lainières du groupe Prouvost. Une digression nécessaire pour mieux comprendre l’histoire de cette jeune marque au passé glorieux ! Deborah Berger, directrice du développement du département laine, est chargée du lancement de la marque Amédée 1851 dont elle est la fondatrice. L’objectif ? Devenir une référence des écharpes et des étoles en laine à l’instar d’Hermès pour ses carrés de soie.
Amédée 1851, une laine Mérinos encore plus précieuse que le cachemire
Amédée 1851 surfe donc sur ses origines et met en avant son double héritage. Ses produits se nomment Brooklyn, Santa Monica, South Beach, Valparaiso ou Bilbao, comme autant d’escales des navires à vapeur de la compagnie des Chargeurs Réunis, ses motifs colorés et graphiques sont un hommage aux années 20 et à l’époque Art déco, clin d’œil aux périodes prospères des industries textiles de Roubaix. Quant à sa matière fétiche, c’est la laine mérinos labellisée Organica, une exclusivité du groupe Chargeurs qui garantit le respect des personnes, des animaux et de leur environnement. Une laine Mérinos produite en Tasmanie et en Patagonie dont les fibre mesurent 14 à 16 microns de diamètre et réputée comme étant la laine la plus fine du monde. Puis le filage et la teinture sont réalisés en Italie, le tissage des foulards à Côme et celui des plaids en jacquard en Italie aussi où des artisans passionnés ont conservé des métiers anciens, le tissage du twill a lui été confié à des entreprises de la région lyonnaise. Ces derniers utilisent une laine extra fine de Mérinos encore plus précieuse que la fibre cachemire. D’autres finitions comme le « roulotté » ou les franges des foulards sont confiés à des artisans à Madagascar, les étiquettes, cousues à la main, le sont en Italie.
Amédée 1851, un e-shop avant des boutiques en propre
Deborah Berger s’est aussi attachée à s’entourer d’un directeur artistique et d’une dizaine de créateurs français pour offrir une approche renouvelée dans la conception des designs. Un design qui se doit d’être accrocheur, Amédée 1851 n’est pour l’instant disponible que via un e-shop. Néanmoins, la marque espère très vite se rapprocher des grands magasins ou de boutiques haut de gamme pour présenter ses produits vendus de 180 à 450 euros… avant sans doute un peu plus tard d’avoir un lieu en nom propre.
Boutique Amédée 1851 : www.amedee1851.com
Marie Miller
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