Jean-Charles de Castelbajac inaugure aujourd’hui son exposition « I Want, the Empire of Collaboration » à la galerie Magda Danysz, 78 rue Amelot à Paris. Elle sera visible jusqu’au 17 mars 2018.
Avant le vernissage officiel, visite guidée en compagnie de l’artiste.
L’exposition « I Want, the Empire of Collaboration » représente le troisième volet d’un triptyque. Avant tout créateur de mode et designer, Jean-Charles de Castelbajac a débuté il y a douze ans ce travail sur l’influence des marques dans l’art et la société, avec une première exposition dévoilée à Londres en 2009. A ses débuts, il a collaboré aux Etats-Unis avec le peintre Keith Haring et le photographe Robert Mapplethorpe. Tant d’autres artistes et personnalités ont ensuite croisé sa route. Tout au long de sa carrière, il a mis en place des partenariats avec les marques, souvent avec un certain retentissement. « Tout n’est que collaborations », explique Jean-Charles de Castelbajac qui aime aussi à utiliser pour cette démarche l’expression « archéologie contemporaine ». D’où le thème choisi pour présenter dans cette galerie parisienne une sélection de toiles et dessins, dont un certain nombre de réalisations ont été terminées il y a quelques jours seulement.
Dès l’entrée, les oeuvres exposées à la galerie Danysz représentent une première approche de détournement, à travers un hommage à la musique Rock et Pop, qu’il affectionne depuis toujours. Sur des toiles de grande dimension, le designer a sélectionné trois de ses albums musicaux préférés – Never Mind the Bollocks des Sex Pistols, la compilation de reprises Pin Ups de David Bowie et Jacno en solo – qu’il a recouverts d’une fine couche de peinture blanche laissant deviner le visuel original. « C’est une technique d’effacement liée au temps, une forme de disparition », commente l’artiste. Sur chacun de ces tableaux, la silhouette d’un blason dans une couleur primaire attire le regard. Il explique que « chaque couleur est baptisée de son nom médiéval : bleu d’azur, jaune d’or, rouge de gueules. »
En face, une oeuvre en cinq éléments, baptisée « Kasimir x Walt x Raymond », compose un clin d’oeil à Kasimir Malevitch, Walt Disney et Raymond Loewi.
Plus loin, trois grands formats avec les mots « Catho », « Punk », « Aristo ». « Dans cette série, je me suis « brandé », commente Jean-Charles de Castelbajac. Ces toiles sont un hommage aux « supports surfaces », ces artistes qui considéraient que le support était plus important que l’image. Un thème qui ramène aussi à la mode, avec l’utilisation de la technique du retournement de la toile, comme s’il s’agissait d’un revers de vêtement : « J’ai fait des manteaux avec des revers qui parlaient d’une autre couleur qui était derrière ».
Des toiles et dessins de tous formats sont entremêlés au centre de la galerie, où se côtoient les inspirations et détournements qui habitent l’artiste : le logo Esso dessiné par Raymond Loewy et éternellement revisité par Jean-Charles de Castelbajac, les pictogrammes de peintres (Gustave Courbet, Albrecht Dürer, Vermeer) qui le fascinent, les rencontres improbables, les influences artistiques…
Le créateur de mode poursuit la visite guidée en n’oubliant aucune oeuvre : la toile qui a donné son nom à l’exposition – « L’empire de la collaboration » – est décrite comme « un tsunami d’images, le rayonnement de l’artiste à travers son travail de création » ; le tableau « Naissance d’une histoire » est qualifié d’« arbre généalogique de la mode, carte du ciel pour designers ». En commençant la chronologie par Balenciaga, les logos ou initiales des grands noms de la mode parisienne sont éparpillés sur la toile et reliés par des lignes de couleur, comme une arborescence.
Au premier étage de la galerie Magda Danysz, l’exposition se poursuit avec d’autres formes d’expression : l’émotion s’y traduit de manière moins symbolique, au travers de signes emblématiques. A l’image du dyptique qui réunit Sonia Rykiel et Sonia Delaunay dans une « forme d’accident sentimental avec ces deux femmes ». Et notre guide n’oublie pas de rappeler que Sonia Rykiel considérait ses rayures fétiches comme la métaphore des barreaux qui enferment la femme.
Un mur est totalement consacré à une série de petits tableaux de même taille, alignés comme s’il s’agissait de photos sur Instagram, un réseau social que Jean-Charles de Castelbajac affectionne depuis quelque temps.
Enfin, la dernière section de l’exposition, baptisée « The Mall/The Wall », réunit un accrochage de shopping bags. Jean-Charles de Castelbajac les a colorés à sa manière tout en conservant une partie du logo de chaque sac pour délivrer un message, un trait d’humour, une association d’idées. Sans doute une autre façon de tourner autour de la mode en s’appropriant ses symboles et en transformant son packaging avec dérision. Entamée il y a quelques semaines, le début d’une nouvelle exploration sur le chemin des détournements et collaborations signées Jean-Charles de Castelbajac.
Jean-Charles de Castelbajac est un créateur de mode et designer français. Cet artiste est aussi peintre, dessinateur, costumier, auteur et collectionneur. Il est né le 28 novembre 1949 à Casablanca, descendant d’une famille noble de Bigorre. Il a créé sa marque de prêt-à-porter éponyme dans les années 1980 et s’est fait notamment connaître à travers des partenariats avec des marques, sa manière de mêler la mode et l’art, sa palette de couleurs vives.
Exposition « I Want, the Empire of Collaboration » à la galerie Magda Danysz, 78 rue Amelot à Paris. Du 3 février au 17 mars 2018. Entrée libre.
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