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Le grand come-back de la maison Poiret après s’être éclipsé depuis plus de 80 ans

Le grand come-back de la maison Poiret après s’être éclipsé depuis plus de 80 ans

La fameuse marque de renom Poiret, connue pour le fait d’avoir dépourvu la femme du corset, va faire son grand retour dans l’univers de la mode après s’être éclipsé pendant plus de 80 ans. Un come-back qui va évidemment marquer l’histoire de la mode. Paul Poiret projette de refaire surface en mars, durant la Fashion Week parisienne où la marque dévoilera au grand public la première collection qui marquera ce grand retour. Dans un communiqué, la marque a annoncé que : « Récemment acquise par le groupe coréen Shinsegae, la maison Poiret présentera sa première collection de prêt-à-porter à Paris pour la saison automne-hiver 2018-2019, dessinée par sa directrice artistique Yiqing Yin ».

De nouveaux dirigeants en tête d’une nouvelle histoire de la marque Poiret

Pour poursuivre son chemin et continuer l’histoire laissée il y a plus de 80 ans, la marque historique sera gérée par de nouveaux dirigeants. La Belge Anne Chapelle sera en tête de la firme, tandis que Haider Ackermann et Ann Demeulemeester siègeront en tant que propriétaires des marques et PDG de la maison.

Quant à la directrice artistique Yiqing Yin, on peut dire qu’elle n’est pas nouvelle dans le monde de la mode haut de gamme. En effet, cette créatrice française d’origine chinoise nage dans l’univers depuis 2011. Cette dernière a dévoilé ses premières créations durant des défilés dans le calendrier de la haute couture. Et ce n’est pas sa seule expérience dans le domaine car Yiqing Yin a déjà aussi tenu la place de directrice artistique chez Léonard après des études approfondies à l’Ecole nationale supérieur des Arts décoratifs ou Ensad. Sa marque qui lui a permis de recevoir la récompense du prestigieux label haute couture a connu un énorme succès en 2013, à Cannes lorsqu’Audrey Tautou portait une robe qui faisait partie de sa collection. Il s’agit de la fameuse robe en organza et mousseline de soie, plissés.

Elle a donc le bagage nécessaire pour mener à bien sa mission au sein de la maison Poiret et refaire briller la marque comme il se doit. Attendons de voir ce qu’elle nous réservera durant ce défilé de la Fashion week en Mars prochain. En tout cas, elle a fait part de son objectif de poursuivre « le geste de Paul Poiret qui au début du XXème siècle, libérait le corps et l’esprit des femmes. »


L’histoire de Paul Poiret

Paul Poiret (1879-1944) a mis en place sa maison en 1903 en misant sur des styles orientaux tels que les tuniques, les kimonos japonais ou les sarouels. Il est également connu pour les lignes droites qu’il mettait en valeur dans ses créations comme la robe-chemise et les couleurs vives qu’il utilisait. Mais ce dernier ne s’est pas seulement limité aux créations de prêt-à-porter. Il s’est également distingué de ses amis, parmi lesquels on peut citer Pablo Picasso, Raoul Dufy, Henri Matisse ou André Derain parce que  ce couturier avant-gardiste est le seul couturier à avoir ouvert les portes de sa propre maison de parfumerie.

Les activités de Paul Poiret se déroulaient à merveille et il a connu un succès brillant dans l’univers de la mode jusqu’à ce que la crise de 1929 fasse son apparition. Les maisons de couture de ce dernier, tout comme sa maison de parfums et d’arts décoratifs se sont donc éclipsés petit à petit. Après des années fabuleuses de réussite, le collectionneur d’art Paul Poiret a donc fini ses jours dans la solitude et dans la ruine qu’il s’est éteint à l’âge de 65 ans.

Une exposition au Metropolitan Museum of Art de New York a été organisée en 2007 en son honneur.





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