Givenchy a misé sur la fausse fourrure dans sa collection féminine et masculine durant la Fashion Week parisienne automne-hiver 2018-2019. Tandis que chez Balenciaga, on a eu droit à des proportions exagérées devant un décor montagneux tout blanc couvert de graffitis et entouré de neige artificielle.
La fausse fourrure, reine de la soirée avec Givenchy
Le défilé de Givenchy durant la Fashion Week parisienne a fait frissonner les défenseurs des droits des animaux car la collection de Clare Waight Keller s’est principalement concentrée sur la fausse fourrure, qui se rapprochait de la vraie fourrure. D’ailleurs, la créatrice britannique a affirmé dans les coulisses que son but était d’amener le grand public dans le doute : « Je voulais susciter cette interrogation est-ce de la vraie ou pas ?, le message est de montrer que c’est possible d’arriver à un beau résultat ». Son savoir-faire et son inspiration ont donné fruit à un résultat épatant avec la fausse fourrure en jacquard.
Plusieurs grandes maisons de la mode se sont promis de ne plus exploiter la fourrure animale dans leur collection, dont Gucci et Armani. La créatrice Stella McCartney a même dit adieu à la fourrure mais également au cuir.
Durant le défilé de Clare Waight Keller au Palais de Justice de Paris, elle a puisé son inspiration sur le paysage de Berlin Ouest dans les années 1980, notamment la culture new wave.
Quant au décor, le public a eu droit à une ambiance nocturne qui a mis à l’honneur le cuir et les motifs des pelages de fauves renforçant la silhouette. La créatrice a mêlé la bourgeoisie avec l’underground et pour faire un contraste avec la coupe sobre et sévère, le look disco vient couronner le tout.
Balenciaga se distingue aussi…
Durant le défilé, Balenciaga se distingue aussi avec la silhouette singulière sur son décor enneigé. Des proportions exagérées, des tenues inhabituelles… Le directeur artistique Demna Gvasalia a préparé dans le vestiaire, des pantalons fuseaux insérés dans les chaussures, des manches de sous-pulls aux couleurs flashy très voyantes se prolongeant par des gants…
Les mannequins qui ont défilés avec leur air sévère ont été vêtus de plusieurs couches de vêtements pour donner l’air d’un mille-feuille vestimentaire.
On a pu voir la veste tailleur sous une autre facette propre au créateur qui a misé sur des techniques modernes de moulage et de numérisation en 3D du corps humain via un scanner. Une carrure étroite avec la taille marquée, la veste adoptant un style plutôt féminin s’est vu avec des hanches arrondies et des basques allongées. Porté par des mannequins hommes et femmes qui ont défilé avec une démarche rigide.
Sinon, on a également pu voir les clés qui ont été utilisés comme bijoux chez le designer géorgien, notamment comme boucles d’oreilles ou sur une ceinture en chaîne. Des couleurs vives sur d’énormes sacs enjolivés d’une image de chat et de chien pelotonnés évoquant un calendrier.
La marque de Kering a collaboré avec le Programme alimentaire mondial qui lutte contre la faim mondiale. Ce qui explique le logo WFP imprimé sur une série de pièce de sa collection ou le slogan « Saving Lives, Changing Lives ».
D’ailleurs, Balenciaga a fait part qu’elle versera une somme de plus de 200 000 euros, soit 250 000 dollars plus exactement à la World Food Programme. Et en plus de cela, elle a également promis de reverser 10% du prix de chaque article doté du logo WFP à l’agence onusienne. Avec une casquette vendue, l’agence pourra financer l’achat de 200 paquets de biscuits énergétiques.
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