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LE GRAND VÉFOUR

LE GRAND VÉFOUR

Paris 1er

Sur les jardins du palais Royal, encore imprégnés par l’âme de Victor Hugo, Balzac… le Grand Véfour est un véritable écrin d’Histoire et d’histoires.

Notamment après la libération, où Colette (qui a toujours sa table), Jean Cocteau, Sacha Guitry, Louis Aragon, Jean Paul Sartre … deviennent des habitués du plus vieux restaurant de Paris (1784 – 1785).
En 1991, l’arrivée du jeune prodige de la restauration savoyarde, Guy Martin va faire vibrer encore plus l’étoile du Palais Royal et ce joyau de l’art décoratif du XVIIIème.

Sous les somptueux plafonds, les grandes glaces, les magnifiques boiseries discrètement éclairées créent une atmosphère unique.
Le public est habillé comme pour assister à une grande première.
Pas de rock n’roll ! Le service au plateau en argent donne le « la » de la petite musique de nuit, qui débute par deux amuse-bouche comme le ravioli de foie gras aux truffes et le filet de bar à la crème citronnée.

Fabuleux interprète de la tradition et de la plus grande modernité dans l’exécution, Guy Martin est avant tout un artiste dans l’expression de saveurs délicates : excellents escargots petits gris sauvages poêlés avec sa fine purée de châtaignes, ail noir et caviar osciètre, oursins à l’émulsion de coques crémée, œuf de caille et caviar, poitrine et cuisse de poularde de Bresse, truffe noire et carotte au café, ris de veau croustillant, pomme ratte fumée et poireau rôti, homard bleu rôti dans sa carapace, cerfeuil tubéreux confit et en émulsion… magnifique plateau de fromages, suprême de clémentine et gingembre… sans oublier le pain de Savoie pour le souvenir en après-dessert.

Avec un Savigny-les-Beaune du Domaine Pavelot, on joue la prudence, on voyage dans l’Histoire, photophores sur les tables et de très jolies assiettes contemporaines.

Le service, habillé tout en noir assure sans faute mais il manque juste un petit sourire en prime, comme celui de Guy Martin.

Menus : 115€ (déjeuner) et menu plaisir à 315€. Carte : 300€. Fermé les samedi, dimanche et 3 semaines en août

 

 

Guy MARTIN
17 rue de Beaujolais (1er)
Tel : 01 42 96 56 27

77 Comments

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