92- Boulogne Billancourt
« Le Désir de Resto’s » le plus hallucinant et le plus rock n’roll de notre guide, il est de toute évidence chez Jean Chauvel, dont la cuisine est immédiatement du niveau d’un 3 étoiles.
Jean Chauvel était déjà la star de l’est parisien, il y a 10 ans dans ses « Magnolias » et le voilà de retour sur la scène gastronomique (voir aussi le 3B). On va désormais aller chez lui et sa femme Nelly pour la cuisine, plus que pour le décor, pourtant sobre, élégant et épuré de la petite salle assez intimiste d’une vingtaine de couverts.
Sous l’or mat, le blanc cassé et les boiseries claires qui s’envolent jusqu’au plafond (assez bas) comme une sculpture de la mer, les tables rondes incitent à respecter la religion de la gastronomie ludique souvent « bluffante ».
Entre amis ou même en tête à tête, on peut jouer à deviner chacun des plats, qui est unique dans les associations de saveurs, les cuissons parfaites et les présentations parfois délirantes d’inventivité.
Une cuisine d’émulsions, de fusions et surtout d’émotions subtiles.
Car les deux menus du jour à 76 € (en 4 services) ou à 98 € (dégustation en 6 services) sont une carte blanche accordée au chef, qui jongle avec son imagination comme au théâtre.
Le ballet des entrées annonce déjà la couleur comme la tomate verte dans tous ses états, l’émulsion de pommes et concombre… le foie gras de canard confit et son râpé de caviar (déshydraté), le velouté de patates douces et pommes de terre au safran, les noix de Saint-Jacques et riz soufflé au chutney de betteraves, le cabillaud cuit à basse température (qui reste ferme mais fond en bouche avec la saveur de la cannelle bien maitrisée) et ses ravioles aux herbes folles, l’extraordinaire sandwich jambon-beurre à boire dans un verre soufflé avec sa pipette (une mousse de beurre, crème de jambon et pain brûlé) qui est assez hallucinant.
L’agneau en crumble végétal, salsifis et rutabagas confits, pomme purée et son macaron à la moutarde (remarquable sucré salé), le Brie de Meaux au jus de pack Choi et poireaux… et une trilogie de desserts éblouissants dont le Paris-Brest à boire et la Barbe à Papa, pour le fun.
Une remarquable carte des vins, qui laisse encore la place à de beaux vins à des prix raisonnables comme ce Macon Viré – Clessé en blanc ou ce Côtes du Rhône – Syrah les Agathes.
Service très agréable, supervisé par Nelly Chauvel, qui a l’œil sur tout.
Menus : 76€ et 98€. Fermé le samedi midi, dimanche et en août.
Jean et Nelly CHAUVEL
33 avenue du Général Leclerc.
92100 Boulogne-Billancourt
Tel : 01 55 60 79 95
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