Il faut oublier bien vite l’environnement tristounet de Palo Laziole (à moins d’une heure de Rome), qui s’efface aussitôt dès que vous pénétrez dans le parc bien isolé de «la Posta Vecchia ». Les longues allées verdoyantes silencieuses portent toute la magie de ce haut lieu historique protégé par un château médiéval, tout à côté et en surplomb de la mer Tyrrhénienne.
Flash back sur l’histoire quand Palo Laziole devient, dès le IIème siècle, le lieu de villégiature en bord de mer préféré des romains. Jules César et même l’Empereur Tibère y firent construire de somptueuses villas. En 1400, le Prince Odescalchi, qui logeait dans son château sur un piton rocheux, au dessus des flots, finança la construction d’une demeure tout à côté pour recevoir les invités de la famille et les voyageurs. Et trois siècles après, elle se transforma en relais de poste «La Posta Vecchia» qui fut victime d’un incendie en 1918 et laissé progressivement sans entretien. Miraculeusement, au début des années 60, l’arrivée du milliardaire américain Paul Getty dans le château de son ami, le descendant du Prince Odescalchi va provoquer sa passion pour «La Posta Vecchia», qu’il finit par acheter.
Guidé par son amour de l’art et de l’histoire, il y entreprit de grands travaux de restauration, mêlant ça et là des meubles, des tapisseries et des tableaux de ses propres collections. Décédé en 1976, il a laissé une collection inestimable sur place. Rachetée et entrée dans les Relais & Châteaux en 1991, « La Posta Vecchia » a conservé à la fois tout son décor original et s’est adaptée à l’esprit contemporain. Rien n’a vraiment bougé de place et les 19 chambres et suites sont vraiment des espaces «découverte d’art », très spacieuses, mobilier des XVème et XVIème siècles, œuvres d’art précieuses, grands lits aux dorures baroques…
L’immense suite Getty, prolongée d’une belle salle de bains en marbre blanc de Carrare donne le ton. Comme le hall d’entrée, orné de deux tapisseries dont l’une est un original de l’école bruxelloise du XVIème siècle, de bustes des empereurs romains. Mais on n’oublie pas les diners au «César», surtout en terrasse, au dessus de la mer car la cuisine du chef Antonio Magliolo revisite les plats du terroir avec beaucoup d’invention.
Chacun trouve sa juste place comme dans un décor de film, en toute intimité, même au bord de la jolie piscine intérieure et du Health Club pour un massage en duo à la bougie ou un bain de vapeur dans le calderium… Le grand plus : la découverte du musée de « la Posta Vecchia », sous vos pieds dans le hall, qui laisse place à l’histoire antique car Paul Getty a retrouvé les fondations de deux maisons romaines du IIème siècle avant JC, autour de superbes mosaïques, du puits, l’escalier qui conduit à la mer, les vestiges d’une habitation d’une famille riche… La référence de César sur les murs laisse supposer que cette maison appartenait bien à la famille de l’Empereur.
- Piscine intérieure
- Petit Spa
- Restaurant
- Visite du Musée historique
- Visite de l’ancienne cité Ostia Antica à une demi-heure
- Fermé du 21 avril au 16 octobre
- General Manager : Marco Filippo
- Prix : à partir de 355 €
- Palo Laziole, 00055 Palo Laziole (Roma)
- Tel : +39 06 99 49 501
- lapostavecchia.com
Roland Escaig
48 Comments
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