Some cities are discovered like lifting the lid of an old trunk: slowly, with emotion, letting memories of another time emerge. Rochefort, nestled in a bend of the Charente, is one of them. Both discreet and elegant, it offers a precious interlude, between maritime heritage, peaceful nature and environmental commitment.
Founded in 1666 by Colbert as a royal military arsenal, this riverside city has transformed its heritage into a gentle travel experience, geared toward responsible tourism. Here, time slows down, memory surfaces on every street corner, and water guides your steps like a lifeline.
A pied-à-terre steeped in history: the Mercure Corderie Royale hotel
First stop: the Mercure Rochefort Corderie Royale, housed in a former 17th-century building, opposite the famous Corderie and very close to the marina. Carefully restored in 2018, the establishment harmoniously blends contemporary design with old-world charm. Wall frescoes inspired by great expeditions, a tree-lined garden, a seasonal swimming pool, and generously sized rooms, some with river views, create an atmosphere conducive to rest and contemplation. Eco-certified, the hotel reflects the local commitment to sustainable and conscious accommodation.
The Royal Rope Factory: the soul of Rochefort
Imposing and understated, the Royal Rope Factory, built between 1666 and 1669, remains one of the finest examples of the engineering of the time. 374 meters long and running parallel to the Charente River, it once produced ropes for the royal fleet. Now converted into the International Centre of the Sea, it houses exhibitions, models, and marine artifacts, as well as concerts, workshops, and conferences. Here, you can discover naval history in a different way, in a place that remains vibrant, animated by the offshore winds.
The Hebre Museum: a journey into a miniature world
Right in the city center, the Hèbre Museum displays its collections in a former 18th-century mansion. Orientalist paintings, objects from Africa, Asia, and Oceania, and notebooks by famous explorers like Bougainville and La Pérouse—each room transports us.
On the ground floor, one room attracts all eyes: the relief map of Rochefort, created in 1835. A monumental model, it accurately reconstructs the city as it was at the height of its maritime activity. Designed to serve as a military and urban analysis tool, it is today a formidable visual testimony to understand the organization and strategy of a city created from scratch by royal decree.
Upstairs, an immersive space pays tribute to Pierre Loti, a native of the city. His birthplace, closed for several years, reopened in the summer of 2025 after extensive restoration. Loti, a sailor, writer, and academic, transformed his home into an intimate theater, decorated room by room according to his travel memories. To visit it is to enter a literary work inhabited by nature, full of exoticism, melancholy, and humanity.
The Transporter Bridge: crossing history in slow motion
Built in 1900 by Ferdinand Arnodin, the Martrou Transporter Bridge is the last one in operation in France. Its suspended gondola allows the bridge to cross the Charente River without interrupting river navigation. Cyclists, pedestrians, and light vehicles enjoy this slow, almost timeless crossing, with the marshes and silent banks as a backdrop. In the former caretaker's house, an interpretation center traces the social and technical history of this unique monument.
Naval Medical School: Science and Exploration
Founded in 1722, the Naval Medical School was the first of its kind in the world. Like a cabinet of curiosities, it houses an anatomy amphitheater, medical instruments, expedition herbaria, and an impressive library of over 25,000 volumes. Here, visitors discover the crucial role of shipboard doctors in the acquisition of tropical knowledge and the fight against diseases that plagued ships. A rare and captivating place.
The Golden Begonia: the art of gold thread
In a discreet workshop in the heart of the city, the Bégonia d'Or preserves a rare skill: gold thread embroidery. Founded in 1995 under the direction of Sylvie Deschamps, Master of Art, the workshop perpetuates the ancient techniques of military, liturgical, and haute couture embroidery. Professionals are trained there, curious visitors are welcomed, and the windows display works created for Chanel, Dior, the Comédie Française, and the diplomatic corps.
Rochefort at the table: between river and terroir
Local gastronomy is particularly evident around the marina. At Cap Nell, a luminous glass roof opens onto the sailboats. Here, estuary produce rubs shoulders with exotic influences, in a relaxed atmosphere, driven by seasonal cuisine and the anecdotes of Nelly, the hostess, who loves to tell her own legend.
A few steps further, Casa Loti reimagines the former lock keeper's house as a warm, bohemian retreat. Light wood, secondhand objects, live music, and a Mediterranean ambiance make this an ideal spot for a summer evening.
Finally, for a more intimate and gastronomic experience, the Vivre[S] restaurant offers refined, inventive cuisine, with a panoramic view of the basin, in an elegant and peaceful atmosphere.
A city that lives to the rhythm of the seasons and the arts
Rochefort comes alive throughout the year with its festivals. Stereoparc, an event dedicated to electronic music, reinvents the Corderie Royale every summer as a modern stage. Sœurs Jumelles explores the link between image and music, bringing together filmmakers, composers, and technicians for exciting encounters. Finally, Symphonie d'été brings classical music to the open air, in gardens, forts, or by the water, in an open and friendly atmosphere.
A city committed to ecological transition
Rochefort isn't just looking to the past. It's also inventing a more responsible future. It's home to the national headquarters of the LPO, a major association for the protection of birds and wetlands.
Nearby, the lagoon treatment plant, remarkable for its natural functioning, treats wastewater using planted ponds. It also serves as a bird sanctuary, home to more than 200 species. Observatories and marked trails allow the public to understand how it works, while discovering the richness of life.
Rochefort isn't a city to be visited in a hurry. It's best explored at a slow pace, on foot, by bike, or by boat. Its luxury is discreet: it resides in the beauty of its buildings, the precision of its gestures, its respect for the environment, and its gentle way of life.
For those seeking meaning, calm, and authenticity, Rochefort isn't a stopover; it's a destination. A city that tells stories, breathes, and invites you to slow down.
Ema Lynnx
Photos: Patrick KOUNE
Our thanks to the Rochefort Océan Tourist Office
