By Ema Lynnx
To discover Velha do Palheiro homeTo reach this point, one must leave behind the Funchal seafront, Madeira's main city, and its spectacular coastline. On the road that gradually climbs into the hills, the temperatures become milder; and along the roadsides, blue and white agapanthus slowly replace the buildings. After a few more winding ascents, a discreet gate opens onto an estate where time and nature seem to have decided to slow down.
Welcome to Casa Velha do Palheiro.
Built in 1804 as a hunting lodge for the Count of Carvalhal, the residence is now Madeira's only 5-star Relais & Châteaux property. Restored with deep respect for its history, it still belongs to the Blandy family, prominent figures on the island and renowned for their Madeira wine. More than just a hotel, Casa Velha remains first and foremost a family home open to travelers.
From the very first moment, the atmosphere is striking. The lounges are paneled in wood, furnished with deep armchairs, bookshelves, and fireplaces, evoking an elegant British country house more than a contemporary hotel. The bedrooms extend this feeling of intimacy with classic décor, refined fabrics, and large windows overlooking the gardens.
But true luxury is found outdoors.
Waking up in one of Madeira's most beautiful gardens
Every morning begins with a walk. Indeed, surrounding the house lie the famous Palheiro Gardens, considered among the most remarkable in the archipelago. More than two hundred years of botanical passion have shaped this immense park where tree ferns, magnolias, camellias, orchids, cypresses, centuries-old trees, and plants from all corners of the world coexist.
The pathways invite you to wander aimlessly. Here, you don't visit a garden, you happily lose yourself in it. It is this omnipresent nature that gives Casa Velha its unique character. Unlike the large seaside hotels, this estate cultivates a true sense of retreat. The only sounds that accompany the day are often birdsong and the wind rustling through the treetops, carrying the scent of jasmine.
Rooms that extend the history of the house
Spread across the historic 1804 main house, the Garden Wing, and the Golf Wing, the 38 rooms and suites each possess their own distinct character. No two are alike, reinforcing the feeling of staying in a true family home rather than a standardized hotel. Refined fabrics, English-style furnishings, antique prints, wood paneling, and fireplaces evoke the property's aristocratic heritage, while contemporary amenities ensure impeccable comfort. All rooms feature air conditioning, individual heating, a minibar, a safe, premium bedding, and an elegantly appointed bathroom. Suites and rooms in the Golf Wing also include a separate bathtub and shower.
The Garden Wing Double RoomsThese rooms, approximately 28 square meters in size, are appealing thanks to their bright atmosphere and views of the estate's gardens. Some retain magnificent original wooden parquet floors, enhancing their authentic character.
Housed in the historic residence, the Main House Deluxe Rooms offer an even more immersive experience in the history of Casa Velha. Their volumes vary according to the original architecture of the building, with high ceilings, period details and views of the inner courtyard or gardens.
The Junior SuitesLocated in the main house, these suites offer nearly 52 square meters of living space and provide a true sense of private residence. The separate living room, large windows opening onto the gardens, and period furniture create an elegant atmosphere, ideal for extended stays.
Finally, the two Senior Suites The Golf wing rooms represent the pinnacle of the Casa Velha experience. Named Frank Dillon et Andrew PickensNamed in homage to two British artists who immortalized Madeira in the 19th century, these suites feature a separate bedroom, a spacious living room, a bathroom with a bathtub and shower, and stunning views of the gardens and golf course. More than just suites, they tell their own story, a part of the island's artistic and cultural history.
Another way to discover Funchal
While Casa Velha makes you want to stay put, Funchal is less than fifteen minutes away. The Madeiran capital possesses that rare ability to blend a relaxed lifestyle with vibrant energy. In the morning, the Mercado dos Lavradores bursts with color; the stalls display tropical fruits, exotic flowers, and freshly caught fish, while the vendors still take the time to chat with the regulars.
A few streets away, black and white cobblestones mark the sidewalks of the historic center. The facades with wrought-iron balconies recall the Portuguese heritage, while the old painted doors of the Zona Velha tell the recent history of a neighborhood entirely reinvented by local artists.
We naturally stop at a cafe to taste a still warm bolo do caco, flavored with garlic and butter, before continuing towards the Sé Cathedral, the municipal gardens or the seaside promenade where the Atlantic accompanies every step.
Then comes the time to ascend to the Monte district. The cable car gradually offers spectacular views of Funchal's red rooftops before reaching the city's heights. The tropical gardens, panoramic views, and the unmissable wicker toboggan ride are reminders that Madeira cultivates a lifestyle where traditions and modernity happily coexist, without ever clashing.
A table that celebrates the Madeiran terroir
Returning to Casa Velha in the evening almost gives the feeling of coming home.
The light softens over the gardens as the Oxalis restaurant opens its doors. True to Madeiran cuisine, the chef Gonçalo Bita Bota It showcases the island's produce: Atlantic fish, vegetables from local farms, aromatic herbs from the estate, and carefully selected Madeiran wines. The dishes remain elegant and gastronomic, telling the story of Madeira with refinement and respect for the seasons.
After dinner, a few minutes are enough to find the calm of the gardens, where the lights of Funchal now twinkle several hundred meters below.
An address that sums up the spirit of Madeira
Casa Velha do Palheiro is not the kind of establishment that seeks to accumulate experiences because its charm lies precisely in the opposite:
Enjoy breakfast overlooking the mountains. Read a few pages in a living room steeped in history. Walk among trees planted two centuries ago. Descend to discover the lively atmosphere of Funchal before returning, as evening falls, to the silence of the mountains.
In Madeira, some places are simply accommodations, others give the feeling of immersing oneself in the atmosphere and history of the country, and Casa Velha do Palheiro undoubtedly belongs to this second category.
The must-sees around Casa Velha do Palheiro
Staying at Casa Velha do Palheiro means enjoying the peace and quiet of a historic estate while remaining just minutes away from the most beautiful sites in Funchal and its surroundings.
Palheiro Gardens
Just steps from your room, these gardens, created in the early 2th century, are among the most remarkable in Europe. More than 500 plant species thrive here thanks to Madeira's subtropical climate. Flowering occurs throughout the year, offering a constantly changing spectacle.
Palheiro Golf
Designed by architect Cabell B. Robinson, this 18-hole course winds its way between maritime pines and flower gardens, offering spectacular views of Funchal Bay. Its undulating layout appeals to both seasoned golfers and amateurs alike, who come to play in an exceptional setting.
The Farmers' Market
The true beating heart of Funchal, this historic market brings together local producers, fishermen and florists. Exotic fruits, passion fruit in its many varieties, custard apples, spices, tropical flowers and Atlantic fish offer an authentic glimpse into the island's riches.
The Old Zone
Funchal's old quarter invites leisurely strolls. Its cobbled streets, colorful houses, art galleries, and especially the famous painted doors of the project Open Door Art have transformed this historic area into a veritable open-air museum.
The cable car and Monte
From the seafront, the cable car slowly ascends above the rooftops of Funchal to the village of Monte. Up there, the tropical gardens offer magnificent panoramic views of the ocean, while traditional wicker toboggans, driven by the famous paths, perpetuate a tradition that is over 170 years old.
Madeira's wine cellars
It's impossible to leave the island without discovering its iconic wine. The historic houses of Funchal offer tours that explain the different aging methods that make this fortified wine unique in the world. The Blandy family, owners of Casa Velha do Palheiro, are among the leading names that have shaped this tradition for over two centuries.
Walking on the levadas
The levadas, a true hallmark of Madeira, have irrigated the island for centuries. Today, their paths offer the opportunity to explore spectacular natural landscapes, from UNESCO-listed primeval forests and waterfalls to tunnels carved into the rock and volcanic panoramas. Accessible routes run alongside more challenging hikes, making the levadas one of the archipelago's must-do experiences.
Pico do Arieiro
At 1,818 meters above sea level, this peak offers one of the most beautiful sights in Madeira, especially at sunrise. When the clouds remain below, the mountains seem to emerge from a cottony sea, creating an almost surreal landscape.
