They can awaken memories, create emotions, or arouse attraction or repulsion in the mind of others. Scents play a key role in our daily lives. Above all, they allow us to express our personality. They are said to create a bond with the person who wears them.
Do perfumes have a psychological impact on us? "We detect a clear desire to assert ourselves as a unique person, and perfume is the messenger of what we want to reveal," said Jean-Jacques Guerlain.
Join us on this olfactory journey, featuring a selection of perfumers who have made their mark on the history of fragrance. Starting with one of the world's greatest perfumers, Guerlain, the first fashion house to launch a perfume; then Chanel; and not forgetting the world's most expensive perfume, N°1 by Clive Christian, creator of the greatest noses; then Frédéric Malle; and finally, one of France's finest selections, Jovoy.
Perfume and its history
Originally, perfume was used to exalt beauty among the Egyptians. It was also a way to display power in Ancient Greece. The great history that links France with perfume, for its part, begins with Louis XIV. Perfume became omnipresent at the Palace of Versailles, which allowed the production of raw materials in the south of France, in Grasse, which became this major production center.
The 5th century marked a major turning point for perfume with Lalique, which created sculptural bottles; Guerlain, which launched Shalimar; Chanel and its No. XNUMX...
It was not until the 50s that luxury perfumery became more accessible.
The 2000s, meanwhile, represented a shift in behavior: both men and women were seeking more authenticity. This marked the emergence of unisex fragrances, as well as the trend toward niche fragrances.
Their unique feature is that they are made with the highest quality ingredients, making them a rare product. For prestige, brands don't hesitate to rely on exceptional bottles, often crafted by renowned artisans.
We have therefore returned to more selective consumption and a search for singularity.
The Guerlain house
Guerlain is one of the oldest French perfume houses. Since its creation in 1828, the house has continued to mark the various evolutions of perfume: Eau de Cologne Impériale; Jicky, the first unisex fragrance, which marked the history of perfumery, one of the first perfumes to use synthetic products; Mitsouko and Shalimar. It is also one of the first houses to offer tailor-made products to its customers.
At Guerlain, perfume is an art form, both in its design, which requires the inclusion of the most prestigious raw materials, and in its bottles, made by the greatest artisans, from Lalique to Baccarat.
At Guerlain, tailor-made perfumes are the art of creating exceptional fragrances, presented in high-end cases to make the customer feel unique.
It all began in 1853, when the house created the famous bee bottle containing Eau de Cologne Impériale for Empress Eugénie. It was made by the glassmaker Pochet et du Courval. 69 bees, the emblem of the Empire, adorn the bottle, which was also inspired by the Vendôme Column that master perfumer Pierre-François Pascal observed from his workshops on Rue de la Paix. The bee bottle is hand-decorated with fine gold by artisans, making each piece unique. A true craftsmanship that has since been reinvented over the years and has become the house's signature.
Bouquet at the Court 2023
More than a given, a new collaboration unites the two houses for a second time. 1853 marks the year of the union of Emperor Napoleon III and Empress Eugenie. The Emperor chose Chaumet to design wedding rings and Guerlain to create Eau de Cologne Impériale, a gift for his wife. 170 years later, destiny brought the houses together to create "Bouquet à la Cour," a masterpiece centered around the symbol of the bee. At the time, the Emperor had awarded the distinctions of "Official Supplier to Her Majesty" to Guerlain and "Official Jeweler of the Empire" to Chaumet. The bee represents immortality and resurrection.
To celebrate the 170e anniversary of the bee bottle, Chaumet brings a touch of high jewelry by creating a sumptuous set in the shape of a breastplate adorned with a fine mesh of gold and diamonds (658 grams of gold and 336 brilliant-cut diamonds weighing 55 carats), which connects the 69 bees and adorns it with the emblematic Bee my Love. A jewel is hidden in the cap of the bottle: a ring composed of 88 facets, mounted with a two-carat diamond. A jewel that can be worn alone. A meticulous work that required 270 hours of work. Finally, a gold plaque is affixed, encrusted with hand-set diamonds that form a bee. A label that awaits the next engravings of a lucky owner, who will also have the privilege of choosing the olfactory creation of their choice from all of Guerlain's iconic creations.
Unique piece and price on request
336 brilliant-cut diamonds, minimum G color, minimum VS clarity.
About thirty (33) diamonds above 0,5 carats, color between D & G, clarity between IF & VVS. One 2 carat Empress cut diamond, between D & G; clarity between IF & VVS. 55 carats, 658 grams of gold. 270 hours of work in a jewelry-making way.
The Imagine Bee Bottle by Begûm Khan
For the 2023 vintage, the artist Begûm Khan reinterprets the Imagine bee bottle by dressing it with a 24-carat gold-plated floral plaque, on which sits an imperial bee, paved with 37 gems.
Imagine bottle: €900, Jovoy house selection.
Clive Christian
Clive Christian is one of the oldest English perfume houses. A 135-year history that began with The Crown Perfumery, to which Queen Victoria granted the right to use the crown as a symbol of British excellence, which can still be found on the bottles today.
Clive Christian creates fragrances with the highest quality ingredients, utilizing time-honored techniques. The fragrances have a concentration of 20 to 25%, giving them exceptional all-day long wear.
In 1999, he created "The Original Collection," which included N°1. A collection that has earned its place in the history of perfume as a timeless classic. The fragrances are created as a duo: a feminine and a masculine version, in homage to Queen Victoria and Prince Albert.
In 2005, he created a limited edition N°1 Passant Gardant, priced at €200 each: a 000-carat gold bottle set with 24 diamonds, two yellow diamonds and one pink diamond. It is recognized by the Guinness Book of Records as the most expensive perfume in the world.
Women's Edition No. 1: A celebration of excellence.
A manifestation of sophistication at its peak, both subtle and opulent.A sweet floral, with top notes of mirabelle plum, white peach and bergamot, jasmine, and a heart of rose.
Men's Edition No. 1
This version contains 222 ingredients selected from the rarest. Its notes are composed of 50-year-old Indian sandalwood, powdery musk, and vetiver. A warm and enveloping fragrance.
Frederic Malle
Frédéric Malle is a perfume house. Its unique feature: surrounding itself with the world's finest master perfumers and giving them carte blanche over the composition of its raw materials.
We find there:
– Creator Dominique Ropion, behind Alien, Flower Bomb, Trésor, Pure Poison, Lady Million, La vie est belle… He is described as perfectionist and precise.
– Jean-Claude Ellena: creator of most of the perfumes of the house of Hermès, including Terre d'Hermès or First, by Van Cleef and Arpels…
– Maurice Roucel: 24 Faubourg d’Hermès, Tocade, Instant et insolence of Guerlain…
Dawn by Carlos Bénaîm
Dawn means daybreak. A spiritual moment in the Middle East and synonymous with the call to prayer. Dawn is part of the "Germs Collection," which pays homage to Middle Eastern perfumery. Composed of Oud and Rose, this creation by Carlos Bénaîm, with its invigorating and warm notes, is a vibrant tribute to this welcoming Eastern culture.
Chanel No. 5
Perfume, as Coco Chanel said, is the finishing touch to a woman's silhouette. So she had to create her own: a fragrance that evokes mystery, elegance, power... But above all, a fragrance that is unforgettable.
She wanted the bottle to be minimalist, the opposite of the perfumes of the time. For the notes: ylang ylang, neroli, jasmine, rose, sandalwood. She pushed the sense of detail and excellence by asking Ernest Beaux: “What is the most expensive ingredient? Add more!”
As a name, she chose "Number 5", which is none other than the fifth scent chosen from the samples that the famous nose had created for her in 1921.
Legend has it that Gabrielle Chanel said, "I'm launching my collection on May 5th, the fifth month of the year. Let's give it the number it wears, and this number 5 will bring it luck." Thus was born the most famous perfume in history. It was such a success that the famous Andy Warhol was inspired to create a silkscreened work of art. Gabrielle Chanel, an avant-garde businesswoman, wanted a simple name, like the perfume names of the time.
Chanel was the first fashion house to launch a perfume! And N° 5 represents the first perfume to create a link between fashion and beauty.
No. 5 has spanned the ages and radiated across the world. Years after its creation, it continues to seduce just as much, in all its variations.
This year the House is offering the Grand Extrait No. 5, a magnificent aldehyde floral bouquet. With precious notes of Grasse neroli, May rose, and Grasse jasmine, and a hint of iris that gives it a powdery feel.
The bottle is cut like a diamond, with the faceted cabochon reminiscent of Place Vendôme.
Josiane Massé
