By Jean-Claude Mariani
Behind a discreet facade in Paris' Golden Triangle lies one of the capital's most electrifying addresses. Manko has just reopened after a total renaissance and the result is breathtaking.
The moment you step inside, the journey begins. The air changes. Time slows, then speeds up. Welcome to Manko, a restaurant, bar, stage, and temple all in one. A place that lives up to its name: a tribute to Manco, a sacred Inca deity, the first ruler of a sun-loving people. It's no coincidence that everything here radiates: the golden materials, the warm lighting, the luminous dishes. Manko isn't something you visit, it's something you experience.
A dazzling renaissance
After ambitious renovations, the new Manko has arrived, and it's made a grand entrance. The transformation was entrusted to Sophie Lacroix, founder of Bureau Lacroix and a rising star in Parisian design. The result? An immersive space where Parisian elegance meets Andean warmth. Midnight blue velvet seating embroidered with gold, patinated columns reminiscent of Inca temples, Japanese-inspired screens, and interplay of brass and soft lighting: every detail contributes to an enveloping atmosphere. The absolute centerpiece: a monumental marine mosaic by SICIS, composed of thousands of deep blue tesserae and golden flecks, suspended above the Ceviche Bar. It ripples with the light. It mesmerizes. It makes a statement.
Melio, the soul who cooks
Behind the stoves, Melio Oriundo Chavez is at work. A Peruvian chef of a new generation, bold, uninhibited, international, he draws on ancestral Peruvian techniques, embers, fermentations, long marinades and combines them with the millimeter precision of Japanese tradition.
His cuisine is sincere, narrative, and luminous. He draws on ancestral Peruvian techniques—embers, fermentations, long marinades—and combines them with the meticulous precision of Japanese tradition.
A traveling map
At the center of the room, the Ceviche Bar stands out as the beating heart of the experience: everything happens in real time, right before the guests' eyes. The fish is sliced cleanly, the marinade is precise, the citrus aromas are released, the ají amarillo is invigorating, and the leche de tigre ignites the palate. The culinary act becomes a spectacle.
But the menu doesn't stop there. Exceptional nigiri, raw tuna with ají amarillo and caviar lime, wagyu with anticuchera sauce and daring makis that combine foie gras and bluefin tuna unfold the full richness of the Nikkei universe.
The Parrilla then brings warmth and depth: grilled octopus with chimichurri, Black Angus picanha, shrimp with shiitake mushrooms, and puffed quinoa. The wok takes center stage with the legendary Lomo Saltado and the Aeropuerto, chef-style rice with Nikkei flavors.
In conclusion, the crispy Cachanga with yuzu sorbet or the Tres Leches Manko with spices mark a final getaway before returning to Paris.
Night at Manko
Once the meal is finished, or even before, depending on the setting, the bar takes over. Completely redesigned under a vast golden sun, it offers impeccably crafted Pisco Sours, mezcal-infused creations, and South American spirits crafted with inventive flair. And every Thursday, Manko Loko takes over: cutting-edge DJ sets, live musicians, saxophones, and percussion transform the bar into a vibrant, irresistible, cosmopolitan stage.
Manko isn't just another restaurant in the capital. It's a destination. A journey. A perpetual celebration of the meeting of two of the world's most fascinating cultures. And this time, the journey has just begun again.
Expect to pay around €70 excluding drinks for a very pleasant and exotic meal.
Manko Restaurant
Open daily for dinner. Check-in from 19pm to 22:15pm
15 avenue Montaigne, Paris 8th
Alma Marceau Metro Station
+01 82 28 00 15
Food photos: Thibaud Georges
Restaurant photos: Gaelle Le Boulicaut
