By Maxime Dobremel
Restaurant Aqua Kyoto It's a place that must be earned. Hidden at number 26 Champs-Élysées, it doesn't announce itself, it's not hinted at from the sidewalk. A red carpet on the floor, discreet doors, and an elevator that rises silently to the seventh floor. In a few seconds, Paris fades away. What opens in its place is something else: a reinvented Japan, suspended above the city.
A sanctuary between two worlds
The first impression is striking. Stepping out of the elevator, your gaze is immediately drawn to the terrace and its panoramic view. From the Grand Palais to the Eiffel Tower, passing by the Montparnasse Tower, the panorama unfolds like a living postcard, a view that Paris only offers to those who know where to look.
Inside, the space plays on contrasts with a distinctly Japanese precision. The interplay of light and shadow, inspired by traditional shadow puppetry, divides the space into successive tableaux. Right at the entrance, a glass sculpture in the shape of wasenThe traditional Japanese boat, adorned with maple bonsai trees with silken leaves, overlooks visitors, evoking the vibrant landscapes of Kyoto in autumn. Water, the guiding principle of the Aqua group, seeps into the design details like a whisper: luminous ripples on the walls, dancing reflections in the materials. Where there is water, there is life"That's what the house says. A philosophy that permeates every detail of the decor."
At the center of the space sits the sushi counter, in keeping with pure tradition. omakase, where the itamae They operate in full view, making every gesture a performance. Around them, the low seating anchors the place in its Japanese heritage. Further on, the terrace, half-covered on this May evening, offers a perfect in-between space, neither entirely outside nor entirely inside, bathed in a golden light that is beginning to descend on the city.
A cuisine that balances rigor and imagination
Aqua Kyoto doesn't try to imitate Japan. It reinterprets it, with the freedom of those who truly know it. The menu, both demanding and generous, unfolds like a journey: from light amuse-bouches to more characterful dishes, never losing sight of the delicate balance between technical precision and a desire to surprise.
The gyoza The black cod dishes immediately stand out as a statement of intent: an ao nori tuile, a spicy ponzu sauce, and a delicate touch that speaks volumes about the level of culinary skill. The rock shrimp tempura follows, light and airy, with its umami chili-garlic mayonnaise and seaweed powder. Then come the sashimi—salmon, tuna, scallops, yellowtail—sliced with surgical precision, accompanied by fresh wasabi that transforms everything: a gentle, gradual warmth, without the harshness of mass-produced versions.
The Crystal Sushi, the restaurant's signature dish, is a lesson in balance. The salmon with mint sake marries freshness and umami in a translucent, almost ethereal bite. The salmon, scallop, tobiko, smoked daikon, and beetroot caviar maki concludes this opening with understated elegance.
But the absolute highlight of the evening lay elsewhere. The Black Cod Saikyo Miso is one of those creations that lingers in the memory long after the meal. Marinated for seven days in Saikyo miso and sake, then delicately grilled over charcoal, the cod reveals a caramelized finish and remarkable umami intensity, enhanced here by a champagne miso sauce and a yuzu cream that provide a welcome acidity. The accompanying miso eggplant melts in your mouth, almost silent, allowing the fish to speak for itself. A perfect pairing.
Finally, the Kyoto Forest dessert, tonka bean panna cotta, chocolate and matcha brownie crumble, and raspberry sorbet, concludes the meal on a fresh and indulgent note. Nothing too much, nothing missing.
Mixology as the art of surprise
The Aqua Kyoto bar is a destination in itself. Each cocktail starts with a classic and twists it with mischief and precision to make something entirely new, dressed up with ingredients from Japanese cuisine.
The Akane The ball opens with Tanqueray gin, a cordial of pomegranate, wood sorrel, and lemon—fruity, acidic, almost mineral. Founder's Negroni revisits the iconic Negroni with Fords gin softened by strawberry and coconut, Campari, and Mancino Amaranto vermouth. The result is a rounder, more seductive version, without losing the Negroni's signature bitterness.One Highball surprises with its Ketel One vodka infused with smoked Padrón pepper, lengthened with ginger ale. Smoky, tangy, and unexpectedly effervescent, it provides a pleasant surprise from the first sip. As for the Masataka SourIt combines Suntory Toki, wakame cordial, ripe peach and chinotto in an iodine-fruity balance that is constantly being rebuilt as you drink it.
For those who prefer it alcohol-free, the PA LOW MATanqueray 0.0 and sansho pepper lengthened with Fever-Tree pink grapefruit, proves that creativity does not stop at the boundary of distillation.
The art of entertaining without overdoing it
What makes a great restaurant special isn't always what's on the plate. It's often in how you feel welcomed, not just received. At Aqua Kyoto, the service is warm, spontaneous, and free of rigid protocol. Every member of the team, from the kitchen to the dining room, seems genuinely happy to be there. No overzealousness, no cold distance: just a balanced, attentive presence that allows the meal to unfold without ever disappearing.
The beauty of the place, the precision of the cuisine, the generosity of the service: it is this combination that makes you leave Aqua Kyoto with the feeling of having experienced something, not just eaten somewhere.
Paris seen from above
When the weekend arrives, the transformation is complete. The lights dim further, the DJ sets take over, and the energy rises. The restaurant becomes a club, and the club becomes a sanctuary. But even during the week, as the evening progresses, the place reveals itself in a different light: more intimate, more electric, as if Paris were holding its breath.
Suspended between Japan and France, between evening and night, between a meal and a party, Aqua Kyoto is the kind of place you save for special occasions. And the kind you want to share with others for the surprise in their eyes.
Aqua Kyoto, 26 avenue des Champs-Élysées, 75008 Paris. Open Monday to Sunday, lunch from 12pm to 15pm, dinner from 19pm until late at night.
