While many brands are struggling to enlarge their cases and saturate their dials, Nivada Grenchen chooses a completely different trajectory: that of respect for proportions, controlled homage, and subtle innovation. With the watch Aquamar, a skin-diver with vintage DNA but resolutely contemporary, the Swiss brand reaffirms what makes it unique: offering watches steeped in history, simple in appearance, but technically well thought out.
To understand what Aquamar is, we must first look back at the history of Nivada Grenchen. Founded in 1926 in Grenchen (or "Grenchen" in German-speaking Switzerland), the house has long been known for its watches robust, intended for field professionals and explorers. In the 50s and 60s, as the world discovered the ocean floor and diving became more democratic, Nivada offered several iconic models, including theAntarctica, worn during American expeditions Deep Freeze in the Antarctic, and of course the Chronomaster Aviator Sea Diver, which have become cult.
But like so many other independent brands, Nivada is fading into the quartz turmoil. We'll have to wait. 2018, and the impulse of Guillaume Laidet et Remi Chabrat, to see the house reborn, with the ambition of reissuing, while respecting the original spirit, its most legendary models.
It is in this dynamic that is born the Aquamar, a skin-diver directly inspired by the archives of the 60s, but which does not just reproduce: it appropriates, modernizes and dares some unexpected innovations.
Appearing in the 1950s, at the dawn of recreational diving, the skin diver is a tool watch designed for underwater exploration enthusiasts in apnea, or "free diving" (skin diving). Unlike the imposing diving watches intended for professionals, the skin-diver stands out for its slimmer silhouette, contained diameter and water resistance generally limited to 100 or 200 meters, more than enough for everyday adventures. It combines functionality and discretion, with a rotating bezel, a dial that is readable even in the dark, and a very light feel on the wrist. Today, the skin-diver seduces with its retro design and its versatility, perfectly suited to both urban and nautical use, and remains a preferred choice for lovers of watches with authentic and lasting charm.
The case: compact, balanced, timeless
First crush: the diameter of 38 mmAt a time when so many divers are approaching or exceeding 42 mm, Nivada has opted for a compact format that respects historical dimensions. This choice is not just aesthetic: it reflects a desire for consistency with the era to which the watch pays homage.
The case, in 316L steel, displays a reasonable thickness of 12,9 mm, with a screwed bottom and a crown also screwed, guaranteeing a watertight seal 200 metersOn the wrist, the balance is remarkable: the watch sits comfortably without imposing, and is forgotten without diluting itself.
La bidirectional bezel, a ceramic (a material rarely seen on vintage diving watches in this price range), adds a well-integrated touch of modernity. The notches are sharp, pleasant, and the rotation is smooth but firm. It allows for the classic timing of a dive… or simply a boiled egg, for the less daring.
The whole thing is topped with a double domed sapphire crystal, a visual nod to period plexiglass, but significantly more scratch-resistant. The whole thing conveys a feeling of quality and durability, without the frills.
Dial: vintage on the surface, innovation in depth
The Aquamar's dial is one of the most beautiful surprises of this watch. Available in three colors (deep black, matte blue and textured gray), it adopts a construction sandwich, with hollowed-out indexes revealing a luminescent lower layer. The effect is both graphic and functional: night reading is excellent, without being garish.
The sleek, well-sized baton hands are also coated with Super-LumiNova. The seconds hand, with its bright red counterweight, adds a dynamic touch to the overall look.
But the real innovation, discreet and clever, is hidden three hours : the two-tone luminescent date discA detail rarely seen elsewhere. The disc alternates between two types of Super-LumiNova depending on the date displayed, creating a subtle variation, an almost organic play of light. It's playful without being gimmicky, technical without being demonstrative. A poetic find, almost Japanese in spirit.
Movement: reliable, Swiss, serviceable
Under the hood, the watch houses a Soprod P024 caliber, a Swiss automatic movement derived from the ETA 2824-2. It oscillates at 28 vibrations per hour, has a 38-hour power reserve, and offers reliability recognized by independent watchmakers.
This choice is strategic: it guarantees correct precision, ease of maintenance, and allows the brand to offer an entirely Swiss watch without exploding costs.
Portability: the real everyday “tool-watch”
On a Tropic bracelet, on "rice grain" steel, or even on leather or NATO, the Aquamar changes its look without ever losing its identity. It's a watch that goes with a suit as well as a t-shirt, that slips under a shirt sleeve as well as a diving glove.
Light, thin, resistant, it becomes a daily wrist companion, for those who like to wear their watches rather than admire them in a box.
An outsider diver watch
What makes the Aquamar strong is its discretion assumedIt does not seek to compete with other known divers. It traces its own path, in a niche corridor: that of the diver with character, compact, accessible and anchored in a sincere watchmaking memory.
It will appeal to collectors, lovers of retro design, but also to demanding wearers who are tired of watches that shout their presence.
Positioning & value for money
Proposed to CHF 890 / EUR 815 / USD 1, the Aquamar positions itself in the segment of accessible automatic watches, while offering technical and aesthetic characteristics worthy of much more expensive models.
Faced with competitors like the Baltic Aquascaphe (more minimalist), the Seiko SPB143 (more imposing), or the Hamilton Khaki Navy Scuba (more modern), it holds its own thanks to its overall consistency, its visual charm, and that famous luminous “fun” touch.
The Aquamar isn't a watch for everyone. It doesn't aim to impress at first glance, nor to seduce with marketing hype. It's aimed at a very specific group of enthusiasts: those who love watches for what they tell, not for what they show.
With its compact format, its sleek design, its nods to history and its unexpected luminous twist, she perfectly embodies the idea of a “new generation skin-diver” : anchored in the past, perfectly readable in the present, and even more desirable in the shadows.
Patrick Koune
