By Didier Gottardini
The generation of collectors Breitling is underway, and for several reasons. The first reason is that prices haven't yet skyrocketed for this prestigious brand. The second is that the Breitling brand has captivated generations with its high-quality technical models, and today the number of potential buyers has increased. And the third is that the movements used at the time (before Breitling created its first in-house caliber, the B01, in 2009) are extremely reliable.
The Venus 178 manual mechanical caliber, the BUREN 12 automatic caliber, and the VALJOUX 7740 mechanical caliber have all proven themselves over time, making them Breitling Vintage excellent long-term investments.
Some models are more sought after than others, particularly models with double signatures or specific markings.
Here are some examples to understand the phenomenon of price inflation on these rare models.
Watches with double signature ou specific markings such la Navitimer Breitling Lip, Or Co-Pilot AVI Breitling Lip, born from the partnership signed between Willy Breitling and Frédéric Lipman in 1966, are models which are currently seeing their value explode in auctions, rarity and history therefore have a price.
The legendary Lip Navitimer Cosmonaute 809 Chronograph (2nd generation), estimated by expert Jean-Christophe Guyon at €3000–€4000 (DIGARD auction of December 18, 2011, conducted by Vincent Pestel-Debord, sold for €3800 (excluding fees)), is now, fifteen years later, estimated at €6000–€8000. Why such an increase? Because it is becoming rare to find one in good condition with all its original parts.
As for Navitimer watches signed AOPA (Aircraft Owners & Pilots Association) reference 806, they are more sought after than ever by fans of the brand and are becoming very rare in perfect condition.
Myth and rarity also increase the value of these models among the general public.
These older models are popular today because Breitling has revived its flagship models. The reissues of the Old Navitimer, the Top Time, and the Transocean are giving a strong boost to the original vintage pieces.
The price inflation is explained by the sale thirteen years ago of a unique model that was made for a well-known film, Thunderball from 1965 with the famous agent 007.
Christie's Pop Culture sale, lot no. 9467 in London on June 26, 2013, featured lot 49, a Top Time watch specially modified for the James Bond character. The result of £104,000 (€122,000) immediately revitalized the brand in the collectors' market.
Again, why such a result?
Simply because it is a unique model (47mm brushed steel case, waterproof, black dial with the inscription Top Time) manufactured by Breitling for production needs.
The prices of these watches also take off thanks to their resemblance to other mythical models that have become out of reach for modest budgets, such as the Breguet Type XX, or the Jaeger-LeCoultre Shark chronograph.
A Breitling Co-Pilot AVI watch reference 765 (second generation) in steel was estimated fifteen years ago to be worth between €3,000-€3,500, today in 2026 it can be worth at least €8000-€12000 every day.
This new enthusiasm for this model is easily explained: this watch is the equivalent of a Breguet type XX, or a Jaeger-LeCoultre Shark chronograph…and today these models have reached high prices.
Similarly, the first generation of this model became a myth thanks to Raquel Welch who wore a Co-Pilot 765 in the film “A girl named Fathom” in 1966.
The general public rediscovered all these vintage Breitling technical watches thanks to the specialist press. Their value has not yet fully matured and will very likely skyrocket in the next ten years.
Finally, there are the recent limited series known as "pre-collector" from international aerobatic patrols; those of the Italian army's Frecce Tricolori and the Patrouille de France are particularly highly sought after.
The legendary Old Navitimer chronograph, featuring the Patrouille de France crest, a metallic blue dial, the Patrouille logo at 12 o'clock, and limited to 1000 pieces (estimated at €3500-€4000 in 2011), is currently projected to appreciate by around 50% by 2026. Why? Simply because we are celebrating its 73rd anniversary.th The Patrouille de France is celebrating its anniversary this year, and watches filled with testosterone are all the rage these days.
Moreover, the famous British car brand Aston Martin She was not mistaken, since she chose the Breitling Navitimer for its new partnership by offering a lightweight titanium model, the Navitimer B01 Chronograph 43 Aston Martin Formula One in a limited series of 1959 copies.
Breitling's iconic watches are truly enjoying a surge in popularity. They have become "timeless and beyond fashion," and it's a safe bet that their value will continue to rise!
