In contrast, the trend had already been present for a long time among some watch brands that had capitalized on their iconic references. Today, the market is literally turned upside down by the fashion for vintage watches. associated with the birth of a neo-vintage movement, which somewhat confuses the issues.
The pre-owned watch market has perhaps never been healthier than it is now, and auctions
The most prestigious timepieces are breaking record after record. Yet, watch brands continue to offer just as many new collections. Have they therefore failed to understand consumer expectations? Quite the contrary, they are
perfectly listening to them and constantly adapting to their wishes. They have notably been able to take the turn towards connected watches, at least those who have chosen to offer this type of range. Watch designers have also been able to play on the size of the diameters to conform to the fashion of the moment. After the oversize calibers then the small openings, now comes the time of the medium-sized formats, which have the advantage of being suitable for most wrists and in particular, appeal to both men and women.
A question of proportions
Vintage wristwatches were generally smaller than the ones we wear today. Additionally, some design details are no longer necessarily in line with the evolving tastes of our fellow citizens. Vintage watches are all the rage with some customers, but they aren't suitable for everyone. Watchmaking houses have found the solution by reworking some of their iconic models, or even forgotten references, in order to preserve a vintage look, while adapting them to current constraints and fashions. It has been a long time since Cartier has offered a new shaped case. For two years, the house has preferred to rework the lines of its most famous models, both masculine and feminine: Santos, SantosDumont, Tank, Panthère. The brand with the crown had not waited for its competitors to keep an eye in the rearview mirror: well before anyone else, Rolex understood that it was enough to rely on its historical references by only modifying, year after year, tiny details for success to last over the decades.
Others, notably in the Swatch group, have also considered that the retro side of their watches could be an asset, like Hamilton (see Intra-Matic Auto Chrono which is inspired by a 1968 chronograph) or Tissot (see Heritage 1973). In its latest collections, Longines places particular emphasis on its Heritage lines, while innovating through new models, whose look nevertheless appears furiously vintage: The Longines Heritage Classic, Legend Diver, or Master
Collection. Same Rado, the ceramics specialist high-tech, is not only interested in working with materials and revisits old models from the 1960s, such as Captain Cook Automatic.
Back to basics
The Junghans brand is back in the spotlight thanks to the retro look of most of its models and limited editions, such as the Max Bill Automatic 100 Jahre Bauhaus watch, presented on the occasion of the centenary of this artistic movement. This is also the recipe that has made the success of the French watchmaking house Lip in recent years: the choice was made to reissue emblematic models while giving them a new look, like the Rallye chronograph. Another successful example of a bridge between the past of a century-old house like Citizen and its view of the future: its Platform Mechanical model, which completely changes its look depending on the color of the dial. As for the Vacheron Constantin manufacturer, it is delving into its archives to offer new variations of the Historiques collection. But it is
especially the line Fiftysix, unveiled in 2018, which best illustrates the culmination of work on an old model towards a particularly accomplished new product. Designed entirely by a woman, the Fiftysix collection is inspired by a watch that Vacheron Constantin had marketed in 1956, the reference 6073, with its attachments in the shape of branches of the Maltese cross, signature of the Genevan house. Between past and present, vintage and modern, the Fiftysix collection is distinguished by its retro-contemporary style. In less than two years, it has already become a classic and perfectly illustrates the success of this trend neovintageA trend that mixes all the codes with a certain success.
BY CARINE LŒILLET
© Photo Vacheron Constantin, Fiftysix Collection
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