No matter what you say, everyone likes to know which watches are the most sought-after on the market. Here are ten pieces from the world of fine watchmaking, selected based on recent and subtle trends.
It is sometimes said that conformism is inherent in our consumer society. We know this situation is partly the result of mass communication, whose goal is to get as many people as possible to buy the same thing. Then, fashion comes along to moderate or accentuate market effects. But it is a fact that, even when informed and educated, it is difficult to resist the sirens of societal mimicry. In this regard, one might think the ultra-rich, whose available means should protect them from this scourge, are immune to giving in to the need to buy certain products considered positional goods. However, many also want to feel like they belong to a tribe and, rather than treating themselves to atypical, original, or unique objects that their means allow, they sacrifice to common watchmaking tools. Now, for several years now, a new generation of consumers has been polluting the market by speculating on the rarity of a watch, artificially inflating its price. We have seen the results and the crazy increases of certain references or the sums paid during prestigious sales for so-called rare watches when they are generally ultimately very basic products from a technical point of view.
Independent watchmakers
Fortunately, the current crisis seems to be reversing this trend, and we are seeing the emergence of pieces from designers and brands daring to create original instruments among the benchmark timepieces. So, we'll start with them, for once. Among all the independent watchmakers, it is certainly Richard Mille who is doing the best. Its success is like the product: atypical. Today, as before it Franck Muller, it is aimed at a wealthy population in search of products that only they can afford. To each their own boundaries. But, recently, another independent watchmaker has been creating a buzz in the world of collecting. The general public does not always know him, but he is one of the watchmaking geniuses who will remain – just like Breguet, Berthoud ou Arnold – in the annals of the profession. This is of course Francois-Paul Journe, whose creations are snapped up in the auction room at prices well above their estimates. Logical, beautiful, mechanically accomplished and complicated, his watches are rare and handcrafted in the heart of Geneva. Not everyone can say the same.
Attractive pieces
Then comes Bvlgari that we didn't expect here until recently. The winning combination of ultra-thin watches eight finissimo, with a design inspired by the work of Gérald Genta, has managed to establish the product which, rare and complex, appeals to a population tired of high standards but eager to have a finished product signed by an internationally renowned house. That's a man!
Then, the most attractive pieces are those associated with adventure. The first one mentioned had disappeared from the lists of sought-after pieces for a while, but with the 70th anniversary of the model, the Fifty Fathoms de Blancpain is back in service. The versions intended to celebrate its history are sure to increase in value over time, especially since the starting price is not insignificant. Then there is the essential chronograph Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch signed OmegaThe older the model, the more valuable it is. We prefer the instruments closest to the year of launch (1957) and then, all those whose numbers associate them with the periods of the conquest of space and later, of the Moon (1961 to 1972). Of all the models presented in this selection, we will note that this chronograph is the timepiece with the most impressive history and the lowest price, even if it progresses very quickly because of this equation which makes it particularly attractive. So, notice to enthusiasts looking for the rare pearl. The Speedmaster is for them!
Myths and beautiful signatures
In the same spirit, but ultimately a little less easy to find, there are two products Rolex who also had a great career on the wrists of many modern-day heroes. These are the famous Oyster Perpetual Submariner et Oyster Perpetual Cosmograph DaytonaThese two pieces are among the top five most sought-after watch models on Earth. Both were once the target of speculators, but today, things are slowly returning to normal and it is structurally easier to find them in stores than it was three years ago. Resale prices are reflecting this and are getting closer to those of new items. But, there is a value for everything and it would be foolish to discuss its merits, especially when it is associated with a desire associated with a myth.
On the other hand, it is always possible to wonder about the reasons that push enthusiasts to overpay for the simplest model in a product family, even if it bears a beautiful signature. Two brands encounter this problem, which could play tricks on them. Indeed, manufacturers Patek Philippe et Audemars Piguet, both renowned for the quality of their complicated watches, are in the same situation. For almost five years, it is the simplest models that have been taking center stage. Indeed, the Nautilus, like theAquanaut by Patek Philippe, and the Royal Oak by Audemars Piguet are currently the most sought-after pieces on the market. This leads to an inflation in the prices of the rare accessible timepieces, which is all the more significant as they are produced in small quantities (to be weighed up for Audemars Piguet, where the Royal Oak under all its references represents more than 80% of production).
In this fascinating and difficult-to-understand world, no one knows how long this state of grace will last. One thing is certain: in recent months, and probably due to the global crisis, the price of these two models has fallen sharply. Owners who paid the full price for these instruments can rest assured: the decline is clear, but the value remains high. Only those who bought them at the height of demand will have some difficulty covering their costs when they tire of them. But that's the game, and as they say in banking, when it comes to speculative investments, they involve risks of loss, including capital losses... So, something to think about, between pleasure and return, when it comes to time-measuring instruments.
Vincent Daveau
LI 11
