Charles Girardier was awarded at the GPHG 2020 in the Ladies' Complication category and this year he is launching the 1809 collection for men. The 1809 Cobalt Blue 41 mm is the first version of his Mysterious Signature flying tourbillon.
Complicated and refined, its magnificent grand feu enamel dial forms a rare combination with the fine watchmaking movement. Extending from its tourbillon cage are the initials C and G, animated by the Mysterious Signature.
The techniques of the crafts for the manufacture of his complicated watches are the mode of expression of Charles Girardier. The 1809 Cobalt Blue 41 mm is a good example that combines history, watchmaking and exceptional craftsmanship with a refinement that is both visible through the use of precious materials and techniques while remaining discreet through a magnificent execution where the details are only visible up close. The blue color refers to cobalt, one of the three metals that can magnetize.
First beats
The brand created in 2018 by Patrick A. Ulm is the rebirth of the work of Charles Girardier L'Ainé. In 1809, the Genevan master watchmaker already had a production of ornate pocket watches, the dials painted with finely executed scenes. For the Genevan Patrick A. Ulm, the revelation happened at the Agatha Christie Museum in front of one of his creations, which led after some research to the creation of Charles Girardier. In 2020, a first consecration was obtained at the Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève with the Complication pour Dames prize for his Mystérieuse Signature Tourbillon watch "Fleur de Sel". This year, the 1809 Cobalt Blue 41 mm watch enters the men's world…grand feu enamel dial, flying tourbillon and exclusive animation.
Movement of light
The "Mysterious Signature" characterizes Charles Girardier watches, a signature in homage to the eponymous founder taking a mobile form. Two mobile elements, in a medallion at noon on the dial, rotate freely. The intertwined C and G are in white gold; they serve as a signature since the brand is not on the dial. The signature can become that of any customer who requests it… it is a bespoke creation.
Art of light
The 1809 mm diameter 41 Cobalt Blue case is 12.2 mm thick. Its profile is highlighted by the contrast created by the polished gadroons and satin-finished sides. The satin-finished horns extend the curves of the caseband. Everything is in white gold, coordinated with the faceted dauphine hands, the polished tourbillon cage, the applied hour markers and the cobalt blue grand feu enamel dial. The back of the case reveals the Master Hallmark that Charles Girardier has just obtained for his own creations. The initials CG in the thickness of the gold, alongside the legal notices, discreetly sign the work.
Nobility of fire
The dial of the 1809 Cobalt Blue 41 mm is made of cobalt blue grand feu enamel. It begins with a solid gold plate suitable for receiving the finest enamels and shaped to leave room for the opening on the tourbillon at 6 o'clock and on the Mysterious Signature at noon. The rest of the plate is engraved with chevron patterns exclusive to the brand. The application begins, followed between each layer by a passage in the oven at 800°C which vitrifies the enamel paste. Eight times the same operation and the last layer of enamel is transparent, called the fondant layer… the hard and dense texture is like an unalterable varnish covering the whole.
Noble heart
The 1809 Cobalt Blue 41 mm has at its heart the caliber CG 1809, the movement offering on the dial side a tourbillon without an upper bridge of the flying type… its permanent rotation is offered to the view without obstacle. From the back, the large single-piece bridge takes up two-thirds of the visible surface… legacy of the Charles Girardier L'Ainé watches of the 18e century. The finishes are unusual: no Côtes de Genève, but a hand-grained finish to achieve a matte surface by brushing on silver powder. This graining is also applied to the other visible bridges.
Heart view
No obstacle on this side of the 1809 Cobalt Blue 41 mm, the CG 1809 caliber is self-winding without a central rotor. An annular weight performs the winding by rotating around the periphery of the movement and registering within its height. The construction of the CG 1809 caliber allows it to operate silently.
The caliber has a rotor, the Signature Mystérieuse is based on a small oscillating weight that animates the initials C and G. A rotating component with a rosette motif drives one half of the Signature, while the other, like a hand, turns independently. The moving arms allow the two parts to move and occasionally align. The system is patented.
In the heart of Geneva
Charles Girardier has partnered with Timeless, one of the best manufacturers of components for fine watchmaking. The latter, based in the Canton of Geneva, also assembles its movements. The caliber CG 1809 is entirely Swiss Made and deserves the label Made in Geneva. Maison Charles Girardier perpetuates the tradition of collaborating with artisans capable of providing the necessary exterior elements to provide the best possible service... the creation of high quality of timepieces by Charles Girardier is guaranteed!
André Tirlet
