For a long time, the jewelery Masculine jewelry has had to tread carefully, advance masked, concealed behind codes of austerity. Now, jewelry is no longer the exclusive domain of women; it can be worn by both men and women. In fact, unisex jewelry is becoming one of the arenas for contemporary creative expression.
Men's jewelry is breaking free from clichés. It's no longer about proving one's virility with raw metal. What's emerging now is a different interpretation of masculinity, more sensitive, more personal. Wearing a ring or a pendant is no longer a marginal gesture: it's a signature. A way to express something about oneself, subtly or boldly.
Jewelry houses have clearly understood this shift
Their vocabulary is expanding, their proposals are adapting to a form of diversity. The new creation by CARTIER This trend is illustrated by the iconic Love bracelet, reinvented in a flexible version: Love Unlimited, crafted from gold with articulated links. Still closed upon itself like an unbreakable bond, it is now lighter and more fluid. A discreet yet powerful elegance, to be worn alone or stacked, regardless of gender.
The same logic of timelessness applies to Hermès, whose silver Anchor Chain bracelet remains a symbol of stylish freedom. Born in 1938, it has traversed the decades without losing any of its modernity: a pure design, a noble material, a cool sensuality of polished metal against the skin.
RestedWith its architecturally designed rings, it proves that a piece of jewelry can be both sculpture and a statement. Its radical modernity appeals to aesthetes who seek to assert individuality rather than conform to a particular style: the Berbere Chromatic ring line, with its asymmetrical gold bands, is now also available in colored lacquer to appeal to both male and female customers.
Palace VanA pioneer in unisex jewelry since the 1970s, it remains at the forefront of this freedom. Its clean, almost conceptual design transcends eras without ever losing its strength, as exemplified by the Razor Blade collection, which exquisitely reinterprets a raw, everyday form with a slightly provocative wink and a virile edge that readily appeals to gentlemen.
Materials and symbols
At TournairesThe Gare de Limoges-Bénédictins ring in silver and gold – sculpted by Mathieu Tournaire in collaboration with Julien Lemarchand – combines architecture and memory, true to the Maison's narrative spirit: a piece of jewelry like a miniature story. It pays homage to the station inaugurated in 1929 and built above the tracks.
MeteorA young, boldly styled brand founded by Paul Alvernhe, Tournaire offers rings in 925 silver, vermeil, and 750k gold, adorned with natural gemstones. Like Tournaire, the designer works with wax and metal like a sculptor, giving free rein to his intuitive movements. Only then does he select the gemstones that will harmonize with the piece and insert the stones—precious or semi-precious—into the spaces within the metal structure. The resulting aesthetic blends the raw energy of metal with the instinctive brilliance of color. These jewels are conceived as fragments of personality and designed to be unisex.
Materials remain a key element of strong identity
Ralph Lauren Korloff plays with the contrast between silver and leather in its men's collection launched in 2024: an elegant tension between refinement and virility. The jewelry captures the essence of classic American style while infusing it with a contemporary sensibility, as seen in the Mallet de Polo bracelets, crafted in silver or brass with braided leather cords. Korloff has also dedicated its Lance bracelet line to men, featuring steel cables. The spear motif at the end, in white gold, rose gold, or white gold pavé-set with diamonds, lends its name to this collection.
Between concept and spirituality
A very special metal is being honored by Tantalus' Workshop, a brand born in 2022 thanks to jewelry designer Frédéric Manin. His ambition: to redefine the codes of men's jewelry and contemporary wedding bands. He chose to have them made from a rare metal, denser than gold, harder than steel, and with a dark, deep gray hue with bluish reflections: tantalum. He fell in love with this fascinating material in 2017 at a mineral show. The drawback was that tantalum is extremely difficult to work with, and no French artisan had mastered this technique, used primarily in high-tech industries, aeronautics, and haute horlogerie.
It was in Frankfurt that a metalworker took up the challenge and brought the brand to life. The first collection includes Atlante rings and wedding bands, a nod to the myth of Atlantis and its inhabitants, the Atlanteans, half-human, half-gods. The Atlante ring is available in two finishes: basalt gray or tantalum blackened by a high-temperature heat treatment. Produced in a limited edition of 999 numbered pieces, this line combines futuristic design, mechanical precision, and deliberate rarity. Here, the jewelry becomes a technical and symbolic work of art, almost an initiatory experience.
Also inspired by mythology, the jewelry house AstromFounded by Laurent Baeza and Igor Nallet in 2023, the brand pays homage to Hera through its Olympians collection. The Sceptre of Hera necklace blends power and mystery, in a dialogue between divine forces and contemporary aesthetics. A pendant crafted in polished white gold, sapphires, emeralds, and diamonds, this jewel is intended to be halfway between a talisman and a sculpture, celebrating the sacred element that resides within each of us.
This movement towards unisex jewelry is not a passing fad, but a redefinition of the codes. It's as if men are no longer seeking to distinguish themselves through status, but through sensitivity. Wearing jewelry and owning it is to affirm an intimate connection to memory and to materials, each texture telling a story of emotion. Today, jewelry is no longer presented as masculine or feminine; it is simply meant to be personal.
Carine Loeillet
Legends:
Cartier. Soft Love Unlimited bracelet in white gold.
Dinh Van. Razor Blade Necklace in yellow gold.
Hermès. Silver Anchor Chain bracelet. Photo credit: Jack Davison/Hermès
Repossi. Berber Chromatic ring, in white gold and olive green lacquer.
Tournaire. Limoges-Bénédictins train station ring in silver and gold, Architecture collection.
Korloff. Lance bracelet in white gold and blue steel cable.
Meteor. Rings in 925 silver, vermeil and 750 gold adorned with natural gems.
Ralph Lauren. Polo Mallet bracelet in silver and leather, men's collection.
The Tantalus Workshop. Atlante Gun 6.0 Ring. Limited edition of 999 numbered pieces.
Astrom. The Sceptre of Hera, Olympians collection in gold, sapphires, emeralds, diamonds.
