Le guide is a rare stone, due to the nature of the process of its formation. A report released by the Natural Diamond Council helps shed more light on this precious gem and, above all, helps you make informed decisions when purchasing a natural diamond or its synthetic copy.
Last July, this global non-profit organization organized a conference and debate in Paris on the environmental and social impact of the diamond industry.
« The Natural Diamond Council's mission is to inform buyers' decisions by providing transparent information. ", Explain Divide Kellie, CEO of the Natural Diamond Council (NDC). At a "Diamond Transformation" panel discussion in Paris in July, discussions focused on diamond traceability in the supply chain, as well as women's empowerment, support for local communities, carbon neutrality goals, and biodiversity protection. Speakers also highlighted the financial support provided to local communities in diamond-mining countries and noted that this industry supports 10 million people worldwide.
A little earlier in 2023, the Natural Diamond Council had also unveiled an analysis entitled “Diamonds, responding to myths and preconceived ideas about the diamond industry”.
The result of research conducted by third-party organizations (Gemological Institute of America (GIA), Bain & Company, NASA), consultations with industry experts (Paul Zimnisky) and independent sustainability advisors (Eco-Age), this report is part of the Natural Diamond Council's transparency policy.
Distinguishing between natural and synthetic diamonds
The word diamond, alone, always refers to a natural diamond. Only three terms can be used to describe a synthetic diamond: "synthetic diamond", "synthetic diamond"; and "lab-grown diamond", a term used only outside France.
A crystallized form of pure carbon, natural diamonds formed between 90 million and 3 billion years ago under extreme pressure and temperature, approximately 150 km below the Earth's surface. They burst to the surface following violent volcanic eruptions.
Synthetic diamonds, on the other hand, are manufactured in just a few weeks. There are two possible methods for this.
The high-pressure, high-temperature (HPHT) method mimics the natural formation of diamonds using extreme temperatures (1 to 300°C) and very high pressure. The other method is chemical vapor deposition (CVD), which involves placing a seed crystal in a sealed gas chamber heated to 1 to 600 degrees Celsius and filled with methane and hydrogen.
All synthetic diamonds can be detected using professional instruments. Based on various technologies, they allow distinguishing differences between the structure of natural diamonds and that of synthetic diamonds, produced in a laboratory. The formation of carbon crystals, i.e., diamonds, is different in nature, so their structure is distinct.
There are over 40 tools on the market that allow diamond industry stakeholders (retailers, designers, and manufacturers) to detect differences. Grading certificates, or certificates of authenticity (depending on the gemological laboratory), accompany natural diamonds, while synthetic diamonds must always be clearly marked as such. Sellers of diamonds or diamond jewelry, such as retailers or jewelers, are legally required to indicate whether a diamond is man-made and must use clear, approved terminology in their communications with consumers. Grading laboratories also conduct tests and provide reports that confirm the nature of the stones.
Sustainability and ethics
Contrary to popular belief, synthetic diamonds are not always sustainable, and the European Union has announced a raft of new laws aimed at combating false sustainability claims. The manufacturing process, which takes several weeks to complete, is particularly energy-intensive and requires heat close to 20% of the sun's surface temperature. More than 60% of synthetic diamonds are mass-produced in China and India, where the electricity grid is powered by coal at 63% and 74%, respectively. From an ecological perspective, the sustainability of synthetic diamonds depends on the energy, chemicals, materials used, as well as water and waste management practices at the production site.
On his website naturaldiamonds.com/fr, the Natural Diamond Council points out that the natural diamond industry benefits local communities socio-economically. At the same time, it has begun its decarbonization journey, in line with international climate objectives. It is also working to reduce the environmental impact of mining, while protecting biodiversity in an area four times larger than the mining area.
This industry is very strictly regulated. As part of the Kimberley Process, mandated by the United Nations and the World Trade Organization, the entire rough diamond trade is strictly monitored to ensure the absence of conflict. A whole arsenal of initiatives, processes, and policies have been put in place to ensure industry compliance on social issues throughout the supply chain. The industry can rely on robust checks and balances, including the auditing of its key players, to assert the importance of ethical sourcing.
The natural diamond industry is committed to social standards and business ethics, resulting in the development of codes of conduct, guidelines and third-party oversight, as well as the implementation of internal due diligence.
Traceability and price
The natural diamond industry is accelerating its traceability initiatives and leveraging technologies like blockchain to ensure transparency in its supply chains.
Over the past few decades, the Kimberley Process Certification Scheme has provided the industry with a regulatory framework for the trade in rough diamonds to reduce their sourcing from conflict zones. This process has since been digitized on blockchain, thereby increasing its efficiency. The technology also makes it possible to track diamonds from the moment they are mined.
Retailers of diamond jewelry Natural products are also launching their own traceability platforms and collaborating with technology providers to ensure their supply chains meet the requirements of global social and environmental regulations, as well as their customers' increased expectations for sustainability.
Meanwhile, the market is evolving. Lab-grown diamond prices plummeted between 2016 and 2023. In some cases, the price of a one-carat stone fell by more than 70%. The price gap between lab-grown and natural diamonds continues to widen. While subject to fluctuations over the past 35 years, the price of natural diamonds continues to rise, averaging 3% per year. As they become increasingly rare, they only become more valuable.
Carine Loeillet
Photo captions:
Photo 1: Speakers at the conference-debate in Paris
“Diamond Transformation” panel discussion in Paris. From left to right: Kesego Kereemang, Safety, Health, and CSR Manager at Lucara Botswana; Marie-Claire Daveu, Director of Sustainable Development and International Institutional Relations at Kering and co-chair of WJI 2030; Livia Firth Mbe, founder of Eco-Age; André Messika, founder and president of André Messika Diamonds LTD; and Iris Van Der Veken, Executive Director and Secretary General of Watch & Jewelry Initiative 2030.
Photo 2: bracelet « tennis » and unmounted natural diamondsare placed on a table
The Natural Diamond Council educates consumers about the world of natural diamonds through its Only Natural Diamonds platform.
Photos 3-4: Lilly James for the 2023 campaign
« A chto rise, now and forever "(" To Treasure, Now and Foreverer"), the new 2023/2024 international campaign launched by the Natural Diamond Council celebrates the longevity, beauty and versatility of natural diamonds in a woman's daily life.
