By Carine Lœillet
The Swiss trade fair GemGenève showThe event, held in early May 2026, revealed the trendiest gemstones and fashionable jewelry, both among professionals and the general public. Color was a key element, for both diamonds and pearls. Antique styles were particularly popular in jewelry: old-fashioned gemstone cuts and vintage pieces appealed to collectors worldwide.
Accessible to both connoisseurs and the general public, the GemGenève trade fair invites the world to celebrate the art of jewelry. Luxe Infinity magazine traveled to Geneva to meet with exhibitors and organizers of this event. Bringing together all sectors of the industry each year, including the largest international dealers, this intimate and welcoming yet comprehensive fair has established itself as a forum for exchange between enthusiasts and experts. It has become the go-to event for gemstone lovers, jewelry collectors, and professionals in the jewelry industry.
One of the trends revealed by this trade show was that of colored diamonds: some fifty exhibitors presented these diamonds at this edition. These precious stones are attracting a new generation of collectors and investors. It's important to understand that their cutting process is more delicate and complex than for white diamonds, as it involves revealing, concentrating, and homogenizing the stone's color.
Nadège TotahNadège Totah, a member of the GemGenève board of directors and daughter of Ronny Totah, co-founder of the trade fair, gave an interview to Luxe Infinity. She notes that "very colorful stones are currently in vogue, both for precious and semi-precious gems. Color allows a gem to appear larger compared to a diamond." Among the gems that stand out, Nadège Totah highlights the appeal of Kashmir sapphires, "very rare, with a specific blue color." She also mentions blood-red Burmese rubies, among the most sought-after stones.
Unusual diamonds are particularly appealing right now: whether they are cabochon cuts or their facets reflect an artisanal and antique style, as in Rose Cut or Old Mine cuts. Vintage cuts, inspired by antiquity, are also popular.
Hugo MassyHugo Massy, a lapidary for the Piat company in Geneva, also spoke with Luxe Infinity. He explains his craft, stating that "lapidaries don't cut gems according to fashion trends, but according to each individual stone. Nearly 90% of our work involves recutting stones that have already been cut. But we won't change the cut unless it's necessary. The primary goal is to retain as much weight as possible. The final result comes only afterward." A graduate of a Swiss jewelry school, Massy won a competition that opened the doors to Emmanuel Piat's workshop in Paris, where he trained for four years. He recently returned to Geneva to open a workshop in collaboration with the lapidary. Emmanuel Piat.
Of particular note is the growing appeal of untreated gemstones. The finest precious stones continue to capture buyers' attention: un-oiled Colombian emeralds, Kashmir sapphires, and unheated Mozambique rubies. Several renowned dealers presented gems of exceptional importance, rarity, and quality at GemGenève.
Regarding cultured pearls, the house Alain Boite identified a new trend: a growing desirability for pearl jewelry with strong volumes and multicolored necklaces.
Nadège Totah, co-organizer of the GemGenève fair, highlights the trend for antique jewelry: "Buyers are looking for pieces that have a story. These are often pieces with provenance, which have belonged to people, sometimes famous ones. These pieces are increasing in value. In the same way as designer jewelry, which allows you to stand out rather than being part of the crowd."
On the other hand, Nadège Totah noted the enthusiasm generated by the Designers' Village during this tenth edition of the fair: "It exceeded all our expectations. The feedback I received confirms my belief that in eight years, we have succeeded in establishing a supportive ecosystem where talent, the desire to make a living from one's art, and mutual support among professionals allow young designers to take their careers to the next level." Bringing together three new designers and five emerging talents, the Designers' Village established itself as one of the highlights of this edition.
Among the must-see events at the show was the exhibition conceived by Mathieu Dekeukelaire, director of GemGenève. This event celebrated the beauty of craftsmanship, the excellence of expertise, and the richness of jewelry heritage. Through pieces from the Baur Collection and the Museum of Art and History in Geneva, the public was able to journey into the heart of rare and historical creations made of jade, horn, agate, coral, and amber. Several international exhibitors also agreed to unveil pieces from their personal collections. "Thanks to the support of our cultural partners and exhibitors, GemGenève presented a temporary exhibition that captivated the public," commented [name missing]. Mathieu DekeukelaireWe are particularly pleased to have been able to offer the people of Geneva, as well as international visitors, the opportunity to discover or rediscover the collections of the Baur Foundation, Museum of Far Eastern Art, currently closed for renovation.
The arts and crafts were also central to the experience. Cutting an opal alongside the lapidary Jonathan Ulli, participate in a mineral blind test with gemologist Anne Quedillac or even see the material transformed live under the tools of the glyptician Elsa Marceau : this edition immersed the public in the intimacy of the workshops and exceptional know-how.
Bucking the trend of a tense global market, GemGenève concluded its tenth edition with record attendance. For five days, the trade show, open to both professionals and the general public, brought together more than 240 key players in the jewelry industry at Palexpo. Attracting 5,365 visitors, for a total of 8,009 visits, this 2026 edition, at the crossroads of business, creation, and knowledge transfer, has established itself as one of the most successful events since the show's inception in 2018. In a global context marked by geopolitical tensions and the slowdown of certain markets, GemGenève sends a strong signal to the entire industry: that of a more demanding market, but one still driven by rarity, excellence, and trust.
Exceptional gemstones, distinctive jewelry, and iconic signatures continue to attract collectors, dealers, and major international brands. The next edition of GemGenève will be held from May 11 to 14, 2027.
Photos: Andras Barta and David Fraga
