Usually, sake should be drunk within a year of bottling, but the renowned Shimazaki house lets the nectars mature much longer and creates long-aged sakes, such as Inicié 1991 and Inicié 2003 selected by David Biraud.
Since 1970, the institution located north of Tokyo (Tochigi Prefecture) has been offering long-aged sake of the type Daiginjo. The House shimazaki is one of the most famous in the Japan in this specialty and has the secret to aging sakes in ideal conditions... 100 bottles are stored in a 000-meter-deep cave, protected from all light., darkness is very important in the ripening process. A temperature difference also allows for slow ripening in a natural environment, 15° in summer and 5° in winter. Time is on the side of the Shimazaki sakes softening the rice alcohol and making it sweet… even 30 years after bottlingA famous French sommelier has been able to unearth the treasures lying in the Japanese hinterland...
The sommelier with infinite curiosity
David Biraud is a world-renowned sommelier… Vice-Best Sommelier of the World 2016, Best Sommelier of France 2002 and Best Craftsman of France Sommelier 2004. Since 1999, he has taken a serious interest in Japanese sake and since his tour of specialist houses, he is convinced that this ancestral specialty can pair well with a French dish, when a French wine cannot satisfy it. For the French public, he has selected two favorites… the 1991 and 2003 vintages. The two gems, aged 30 and 18 years, are presented in France under the name “Inicié” …which implies "initiated," a way of appealing to enlightened sake lovers or those who wish to become so. But "Inicié" in Japanese means "ancient times," an evocation of years spent in obscurity for maturation.
"Inicié" sake accompany savory dishes such as a soy risotto, oysters and soy and parmesan emulsion, braised suckling pig breast, risoni carbonara or sweets like lavender cheesecake, custard with Provençal honey ou Mirabelle plum flan with brandy, crispy black sesame tile.
Initiated 2003, long maturation
This sake, selected by David Biraud, is part of the Daiginjo category with 16° alcohol, made with the Yamada nishiki rice variety, 40% polishing and produced by Shimazaki Shuzo.
According to David Biraud, its delicately golden straw color demonstrates that 18 years of aging have not altered the coloring or its oxidation at all. On the nose, we are on candied fruit evolving towards sweet honey notes (honey is one of the dominant aromas). Candied ginger follows then gives way in the end to an empyreumatic range marked by lightly roasted coffee and toasted bread. In mouth, the attack is supple, round, ample… a beautiful balance between the texture of the spring water and the well-coated alcohol of the fermentation. For the final, a light tannin with a discreet dryness and the pleasant grip brings freshness and relief. The age of this sake benefits this centuries-old beverage!
Suggested savory pairings : Soy risotto, oysters, and soy milk and parmesan emulsion – Spider crab, soba ravioli and consommé dashi; Sliced raw beef tartare style, touch of honey; Turbot in crispy buckwheat pancake, veal jus reduced with coffee; Lamb lacquered with Espelette pepper jus, shiny potatoes with smoked butter.
Sweet pairings offered : Lavender cheesecake, Provençal honey crème anglaise; Coffee with milk soufflé, chili ice cream; Frozen parfait with sake kasu, French toast with double cream.
Initiated 1991, long maturation
This sake, selected by David Biraud, is part of the Daiginjo category with 16° alcohol, made with the Yamada nishiki rice variety, 40% polishing and produced by Shimazaki Shuzo.
The sake is a beautiful, bright, clear straw yellow color… vibrant and pleasing to the eye, with reflections tinged with a beautiful, precise, and attractive gold. On the nose, the aromas exhaled are superb in a wide aromatic palette of fruit aromas with mirabelle-type brandy, and the peaty scent of a beautiful cereal brandy. In mouth, the attack is frank and supple, built around a pleasant and persistent acidic framework. The combination of aromas conferred by fermentation with those of fruits and fine spices gives a perfect balance to the drink. In the final, notes of peanuts and curry combine wonderfully and give it an Asian touch. The long maturation of rice alcohol provides fresh and fruity aromas. Surprise sensations and joyful and unusual pleasure!
Suggested savory pairings : Lobster like a shellfish bolognese; Fried langoustine tails and creamy langoustine shells; Scallops with pumpkin, satay sauce; Pan-fried sweetbreads, crispy, young Créances carrots lacquered with mirin; Braised suckling pig breast, risoni carbonara.
Sweet pairings offered : Mirabelle plum flan with brandy, crispy black sesame tuile; Poached pear, caramelized almonds, peanut praline; Vanilla/whiskey mousse, Madras curry shortbread.
The two Inicié sakes 1991 and 2003 will be released in 2022 by Sakeist ® (sakeist.com)
Alcohol abuse is dangerous for your health, consume with moderation.
André Tirlet
