Opening film of the 2023 Cannes Film Festival, Jeanne duBarry has called upon Chanel as its exclusive partner. The French fashion house reveals the pinnacle of its art through new creations for the main character, played by the intriguing Maïwenn Le Besco.
If there's one fashion house that can bring the seductive and liberated Jeanne Du Barry to life, it's Chanel. The luxury giant partnered with French actress and director Maïwenn to exclusively dress her first period film, Jeanne du Barry, which opened at the 76rd Cannes film festival.
Starring Maïwenn and Johnny Depp, the film unveils King Louis XV and his mysterious mistress, Jeanne du Barry—who, by happy coincidence, shares Gabrielle Chanel's birthday, August 19. Inspired by the late Karl Lagerfeld's Haute Couture collections, Maïwenn sought to incorporate the brand through her attire throughout the film.
This biographical drama, set during the Age of Enlightenment, traces the rise of Jeanne du Barry, who, from humble beginnings, captivated the king with her intelligence and charm. Recounting the courtesan's rise, the film reveals Jeanne du Barry encouraged by her lover, Jean-Baptiste du Barry, who urged her to marry his brother so she could obtain the noble title necessary for access to the royal court. She was accused of treason during the French Revolution and executed by guillotine in 1793.
After scandalizing the court of Versailles as a low-class courtesan, Jeanne du Barry's status as a commoner has overshadowed her outstanding contributions to the arts, fashion, and culture, even today. The film has already been met with great anticipation following its premiere at Cannes earlier this week, with Depp receiving a six-minute standing ovation for his performance as the king.
With Chanel, Maïwenn highlights the real Jeanne du Barry, a refined woman ahead of her time, who used her influence to serve artists and artisans, like Gabrielle Chanel. During the preparation of the film, the collaboration with creative director Virginie Viard became obvious when Maïwenn discovered Chanel's archive collections from the 80s and 90s, inspired by the 18e century.
To create the costumes, hair, and makeup for the Countess du Barry, the monarch's last official mistress, she assembled a dream team of fashion experts. Costume designer Jürgen Doering, a veteran of fashion houses such as Karl Lagerfeld, Guy Laroche, and Yves Saint Laurent, was joined by hairstylist John Nollet and makeup artist Tom Pecheux.
The house created six costumes, lent precious stones from its Haute Joaillerie collection, and contributed makeup to the main actors with its Parfums-Beauté line. Doering selected a dozen looks from the Chanel archives, which the house's ateliers then recreated for Maïwenn, bringing an unexpected touch of modernity to the production.
One of them is inspired by a corseted ivory tweed dress, originally worn by Claudia Schiffer at a 1992 haute couture show, and reprised by singer Dua Lipa at the Met Gala. I loved that the design of the dress was inspired by the 18th century, but the fabric was unlikely, as it was made entirely from Chanel tweed.", notes Doering, who doesn't like historical references to be too literal.
The list continues with a cream-white train dress with a feather-embroidered collar and cuffs, and finally a raspberry silk velvet dress inspired by the models in the Spring/Summer 2000 Haute Couture collection. Also present are a sky-blue organza dress with airy ruffles, inspired by a 1995 collection, a two-tone inner dress in ecru and black sisal, and a large cream leather satin dress.
Under the magical touch of Chanel and costume designer Jürgen Doering, Maïwenn transforms into the captivating Jeanne du Barry in a series of revisited pieces from the House's previous Haute Couture collections. I wanted Jeanne's dresses not to be too frilly and embellished, with cotton veils " explains the actress. " Quite clear but very simple things, and in very beautiful materials ».
Maïwenn's wardrobe is distinguished by the absence of ornaments, the " wow » coming mainly from the volume and color of the pieces. I have adapted to the taste of the day " explains Mr. Doering, adding that he took into account the cost of producing custom parts. I also wanted to respect Virginie's style. It's 2023. ».
In the role of Jeanne du Barry, Maïwenn also dazzles in the reissue of the collection “ Diamond Jewelry » by Chanel for the scene where she is presented to King Louis XV. The first high jewelry collection in history, the « Diamond Jewelry » caused a sensation when they were created in 1932. These glittering pieces were loaned by the great jeweler Goossens, while Maison Michel, also part of Chanel's Métiers d'art, made the hats for the film using a couture technique passed down through generations.
« We tried to find a fair and contemporary way of doing things by working with the energy that drives us in 2023. I don't like things to be too fixed on references, paintings or history books. I want to break out of these closed worlds and try to transcribe the era with a breath of fresh air. ", says Doering, who began his career working for none other than Karl Lagerfeld. The collaboration with Chanel allowed us to bring great precision to the characters' costumes, with a very nuanced and subtle approach, without playing on the discrepancy for the sake of it. ».
« A woman can be overdressed, but never too elegant.. » The same could be said in part for the most dressy and elegant era of Versailles in this new film. In an era where extravagance reigns, it is only fitting that the famous brand is the exclusive partner of this promising film.
EmaLynnx
