By Ema Lynnx
On an island where the ocean shapes daily life and where each valley boasts its own unique flavors, some chefs are dedicated to showcasing the region's heritage. This is precisely the path chosen by the chef Gonçalo Bita Bota, at the head of the restaurant Oxalis of the Relais & Châteaux Velha do Palheiro homein MadeiraHaving been based on the island for almost five years, he has developed a cuisine that does not chase spectacular effects, but seeks above all to give meaning to the products that surround him.
His career path resembles that of many passionate chefs, but with one unique aspect: he built his career as much in the kitchen as in entrepreneurship. After studying in London, where he spent nearly ten years working in hotels, gourmet restaurants After working in pubs and international establishments, he returned to Portugal to open his own restaurants. He then broadened his experience in France, Spain, and mainland Portugal. This diversity taught him one essential thing: a chef doesn't just cook dishes, he builds a vision.
Today, this vision is expressed within the Oxalis restaurant, recommended by the MichelinThis recognition already underscores the quality of his work. Of course, like many chefs, he dreams of a Michelin star. But he refuses to let it become an obsession.
« A star should remain a dream, never an obsession », He explains. " If I cook only to impress the inspectors, I forget those who really matter: the customers. "This philosophy sums up his approach quite well. Every guest deserves the same attention, without distinction."
A gastronomy that begins on the island
At a time when many prestigious establishments are multiplying rare products from all corners of the world, chef Gonçalo Bita Bota is making exactly the opposite choice.
Nearly 94% of the ingredients used in his cooking come from Madeira or, when that's not possible, from mainland Portugal. Fruits and vegetables are grown on the island. Fish arrive directly from Madeira's waters. The few meats he uses come mainly from Portugal. Imported products are limited to a few essential ingredients, such as certain sauces or vinegars. This isn't a constraint; it's a deliberate choice.
For him, true luxury is no longer serving lobster or truffles from the other side of the world. The real privilege lies in introducing a traveler to a fruit they've never tasted, an unfamiliar local fish, or a mushroom that grows only in Madeira and the Canary Islands.
This very contemporary interpretation of luxury aligns with the evolution of global haute cuisine, where terroir, seasonality and local identity now occupy a central place.
Transform rather than accumulate
In her kitchen, a simple fennel can become several different preparations. A carrot is transformed into purée, a condiment, chips, or clarified juice. A leek is used in its entirety.
Nothing is lost. Fermentations, garums, sauces made from fish or vegetables recall ancestral preservation techniques, brought up to date with contemporary precision.
This ongoing research is not a mere exercise in style. It stems from a deep conviction: the gastronomy of tomorrow must produce less waste and more creativity.
Each dish is built around contrasts. A touch of acidity. A crispy texture. A creamy element. A hint of greenery. According to him, no two bites should be alike.
Madeira as the sole source of inspiration
Since his arrival on the island, certain products have become essential in the kitchen of chef Gonçalo Bita Bota.
Madeira fennel, which gave Funchal its name, is milder than that found elsewhere in Europe and is almost ubiquitous. He also enjoys scorpionfish, whose firm flesh sometimes reminds him of lobster, as well as passion fruit, Madeira bananas, and the slightly bitter little cherries from Suriname.
This close relationship with producers is part of an approach that is now part of the major movements in international gastronomy: to value what grows or is fished just a few kilometers from the kitchen.
A brigade founded on respect
Professional kitchens have long been associated with a military discipline where shouting was almost part of the scenery. Gonçalo Bita Bota claims the exact opposite.
Throughout his career, he encountered leaders who ruled through fear. He refuses to replicate that model. For him, a brigade functions like a true team. Respect, knowledge sharing, and trust produce far more than authority.
Even the culinary creations are never presented as individual works. Each member of the team can contribute an idea, a detail, or an improvement. A dish often emerges after several months of collective brainstorming before being added to the menu, which is updated with the seasons.
Away from the kitchen, a family man
When the kitchens finally close, Gonçalo Bita Bota returns to what he considers his true luxury: time spent with his two daughters. Despite a particularly demanding work schedule, he makes a point of sharing his days off with them, often around the stove. He loves seeing them get involved, not to make them future chefs, but to pass on to them the joy of cooking and respect for ingredients.
Nature also plays an important role in his well-being. A passionate fisherman since childhood, a rugby enthusiast who played the sport for many years, and a fervent football supporter, he finds in these activities the same relationship to patience, teamwork, and simplicity as in his cooking.
A film buff, he appreciates movies that tell a story. Among his favorite works are Forrest Gump, carried by Tom Hanks, whom he admires for his ability to reinvent himself, but also Braveheart or, The escapeesHistorical narratives, particularly those devoted to the Second World War, are also among his preferences.
Musically, he listens to a bit of everything, but always comes back to Portuguese artists. Living in Madeira, he enjoys listening to the sounds that remind him of his native Portugal while driving. Cante Alentejano, a UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage tradition, often accompanies his journeys. It's a moment of calm he shares with his daughters and describes as a precious respite in an otherwise hectic daily life.
Between tradition and the future
When asked about artificial intelligence, his perspective remains nuanced. He sees it as a tool capable of simplifying certain administrative tasks or speeding up daily work. However, he remains convinced that no technology will ever completely replace a cook's sensitivity.
Two people can follow the exact same recipe and never achieve the same result. Because taste, smell, gestures, and emotions remain profoundly human.
This reflection aligns with his broader vision of the future of gastronomy. He envisions an increasingly industrialized daily diet, driven by cultivated proteins or farmed fish in order to preserve natural resources. But he is convinced that haute cuisine will continue to exist.
Because a great restaurant is never just about what you eat: it offers an experience, an emotion, a memory. And that, he believes, no machine will ever be able to reproduce.
