By Patrick Koune
In the Gard region of Provence, a few minutes from Uzès, the Castle of Montcaud unfolds its century-old park like a haven of silence and light. It is here that the chef Hervé Matthieu has chosen to write one of the most accomplished chapters of his career. A trajectory built with patience, in the shadow of the great establishments, now revealed by a Michelin star. But behind the distinction, there is above all a signature: that of a cuisine that is clear, precise, and deeply respectful of the product.
A vocation born between land and sea
Originally from Normandy, the chef grew up in a culture where cooking was a given. His apprenticeship was rigorous, structured, and rooted in French tradition. From a very young age, he developed an instinctive connection to fish and seafood, a connection that would stay with him throughout his life. But the call of the South proved stronger.
He moved down to the French Riviera, drawn by the light, the markets, and the diversity of the produce. He participated in the opening of Villa Madie in Cassis, now a three-Michelin-starred restaurant, then joined the Negresco in Nice, where he spent five pivotal years. There, he learned the consistency, precision, and attention to detail that distinguish the great kitchen brigades.
A taste for the world, the discipline of great houses
His career then took on an international dimension. Montreal, at the Ritz-Carlton, alongside Daniel Boulud. New York. Then Basel, at the Cheval Blanc, a three-Michelin-starred restaurant. These experiences shaped his vision:
Gastronomy is not an accumulation of techniques.
It's a culture of gesture.
A way of thinking about taste.
In these exceptional establishments, he acquired absolute mastery of cooking techniques, sauces, and balances. But above all, he understood that true modernity lies in clarity.
2018, the beginning of a story
When he arrived at Château de Montcaud in 2018, everything was yet to be built. The place was magnificent, nature omnipresent, but the gastronomic identity had to be born.
For six years, he discreetly shaped his cuisine:
Local sourcing.
Strict seasonality.
In-depth work on seasonings.
Writing a map in motion.
In 2024, the Michelin star will recognize this vision. A reward for consistency.
A kitchen of readability
For Hervé Matthieu, a large plate of food must be immediately understandable:
We need to see what we eat.
You have to smell it before you taste it.
We need to understand the product.
Sophistication is invisible. It lies in the details:
– a clean cut
– a juice reduced to its essentials
– a perfectly controlled acid balance
– training of millimeter precision
Nothing is left to chance. And yet, everything seems simple.
The product as the center of gravity
His cuisine is built around an unchanging principle: never distort.
Fish plays a major role, a legacy of its Norman roots, but it now interacts with vegetables, herbs and fruits from the South.
Citrus fruits become his signature. They bring tension and light to a classic base.
Vadouvan, a spice he particularly likes, acts as a link between French tradition and openness to the world.
Japanese influence, without folklore
Like many chefs of his generation, he looks to Japan. Not to reproduce, but to understand.
Respect for the product.
The purity of tastes.
The season as an absolute rule.
Miso, kombu, and vinegars subtly punctuate his dishes, adding relief and depth without ever masking the essential.
The luxury of the right gesture
For him, luxury is not an accumulation: It is precision.
Perfectly cooked.
Seasoning measured to the gram.
A balance that seems natural.
This extreme exacting standard is counterbalanced by a profoundly simple personality. When he cooks for himself, it's a croque-monsieur. Because true taste needs no artifice.
A local gastronomy
Based in Occitanie, he now works with local producers and integrates his cuisine into his landscape.
The Château de Montcaud is becoming a destination. Not only for its gourmet restaurant, Cedar, but for the overall experience: a charming hotel, a majestic park, a table where time slows down.
The star as a starting point
The Michelin star is not an end in itself. It opens a new cycle.
Even more detail.
No more identity.
More freedom.
Because Hervé Matthieu's cuisine is constantly evolving.
A signature in chiaroscuro
Classic in its structure.
Contemporary in its accents.
International in its culture.
Territorial by virtue of its roots.
His cuisine doesn't seek spectacular effects. It leaves a mark.
In the soft light of the Gard, in the heart of the park of the Château de Montcaud, each plate tells this story: that of a chef for whom great cuisine is a matter of accuracy, patience and truth: a star born from detail.
Photos: Patrick Koune
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